Older Wines Recently Swilled
Note, if you have difficulty finding any particular wine, Hanes recommends trying these websites or Google to help locate them:
Below are tasting notes on wines Hanes has recently imbibed which are not current releases. Please remember that The Hanes Wine Review only covers current release wines being sold in the United States so as to not yank any reader's chains. But don't think that all Hanes ever drinks are current releases. Why, no, he drinketh many older wines as well! So, for those of you who might be interested in reading about how these older wines are drinking at the present moment, forge on ahead. But keep in mind the useful dictum that there are no great wines, only great bottles. These notes represent one bottle, separated at birth from its siblings and your bottle may taste quite differently based on a host of factors. Also note that the prices for older wines tasted will vary greatly, depending on if the wine was purchased on release or more recently. So, take the noted price with a grain of salt.
Sent to Their Grave in February 2012
Clos René
Bordeaux, France
Pomerol
Blend
1998
$27.99
13.0%
You don’t really feel there’s a lot of purple in the core, more so black and red smeared together, clear with little trace of any sediment, the rims a winter sunset red, more smoldering embers than lively blaze, too dark to really look its age, has a certain visual impassivity. Sweet herbs, pressed flowers, licorice and orange peel adorn the sweet cherry, raspberry, pomegranate fruit scents, more mineral dust than earth, pungent pine forest breeze, light leather, virtually no oak presence, some coffee bean, pure and not showing advancement beyond what you’d expect. Full-bodied, ripe and expansive, coats the mouth even as it’s not shy about throwing tannin your way. This may bring out the savory salt, iron, chalk, black tea elements which balance out the juice in the raspberry, strawberry, cherry, peach fruit flavors. The orange, lemon citrus lifts the mid-palate while there’s twigs, leaves and underbrush to ground it. Nothing here is profound but every component fits together seamlessly making for a whole greater than the sum of its parts. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc. 91 points
Baumard, Domaine des
Loire, France
Savennières
Trie Spéciale
Chenin Blanc
1997
$23.99
13.9%
Nicely pooled deep golden color with a vestige of amber, clean with a shimmering transparency, striking youthfulness, nice fullness through the rims, well-integrated for a more powerful visual impact. The nose starts off with a green, herbaceous quality before segueing into cinnamon, ginger, orange marmalade, honey, mint and a healthy mid-section of pear, apple, peach and apricot fruit, light wooliness, there’s excellent clarity among the elements without it feeling separated, more fun to sniff than derive geeky satisfaction. Medium-bodied, moves with muscular ease and measured pacing, the acidity seems to crest and fall more than provide a steady pulse. The sour orange, lemon and then white grapefruit citrus dance across the palate, sweetened by mint, flowers, honey and molasses, still ending in a dry and square shouldered finish. The lanolin and beeswax glue it to the palate. The peach, apricot, yellow apple, persimmon fruit push forward insistently, not annoyingly. 89 points
Valentini, Azienda Agricola
Abruzzi, Italy
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo
Trebbiano
1998
$76.00
12.5%
Flat and semi-grimy worn golden color with a vague green cast, the rims clear but not seemingly empty, just curious in how it sits there, older but not aged. The nose is not lifeless but compressed, with dusty spice, green apple, pear and peach skin, honey, brown sugar, dried grass, lemon juice, a hint of sherry, just crests and falls in haphazard patterns, in some ways riper and sweeter than might have been predicted. Medium-bodied, the acidity is average but chugs along to basically get the job done. Swirls together cumin, ginger, cinnamon spice, lemon peel, pressed flowers, mineral water, nice crest in the center from the pear, apple, peach, persimmon, star fruit, the florality grows as it warms. Shows signs of “good” oxidation, adds complexity. Will not bowl you over but if you pay attention each sip will provide a new reward. 89 points
Raveneau, Domaine François
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Montée de Tonnerre
Chardonnay
2000
$65.99
13.0%
Pale gold to white hay in color, allows it to appear more consistent core to rims, transparent with a tranquil, clean surface, does not appear a wine of its age. Brisk movements in the nose but not angular nor abrupt, white smoke and ash, chalk, flint then licorice, lilacs, challah bread and lemon peel, remains pure and focused, pear, apple, peach as much skin and pit as pulp, mountain air freshness, very subtle lift and cleansing sensations, really in command of its presence while concurrently unadorned and simple. Medium-bodied, here the acidity scrubs during the attack and then trails off, leaving a flattened surface behind. The violets, lilacs as well as orange, lemon to lime citrus only halfway sweeten things, the peach, pear, nectarine, apple, white cherry fruit of few, if well enunciated, words. More saline and tonic water than stream water, tastes like fossils and chalk more than polished stones or even metallic notes. Its posture is excellent throughout, impossible to doubt its breeding. Yet, there is a certain reserve. Which, truth be told, is close to the “classic” model of top notch aged Chablis. Not arguing with anything here. 92 points
Michel & Fils, Louis
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Montée de Tonnerre
Chardonnay
2000
$32.99
12.5%
The golden hue is not bright as much as warmly glowing, mild translucent shimmer, color disappears to create wide empty rims, more surface shine than expected. Some force and push to the nose, the minerals cede agreeably to the licorice, violets, honey, beeswax and country air freshness, great sparkle from the swirling lemon to mandarin orange spritz, you feel the fullness of the fruit more than the actual apricot, pear, apple, persimmon scents, again more thrust than cut. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, not flat, more so hilly, the acidity nudges it now and then and it certainly ends cleanly enough. Violets, roses, honey, orange blossom, mint all make for a pretty profile, gets lemony through the mid-palate, more sour and dry as well. Light breadiness. The minerality lacks sharpness but there’s glances of jalapeño and the slate slows the pacing down. Peach, pear, nectarine, echoes of mango or papaya, the fruit finishes succinctly. What’s not to like here? 90 points
Michel & Fils, Louis
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Grenouilles
Chardonnay
2000
$42.99
13.0%
Has deepened into a rich gold yet short of amber, not flat, not shiny, no cop out to say it looks like an aged Chardonnay, fades through the rims. The nose shows good life, floral with lifting orange to lemon citrus notes, more chalk and stream pebbles than minerality, the butterscotch and brioche accents stay in the back, the apricot, peach, yellow apple fruit scents holding on and spread wider with air time, similarly more salinity as it warms. Medium-bodied, not soft but definitely pliable, the acidity a steady heartbeat without sudden movements. On the sweet side, floral dew, orange marmalade, lemon custard, yet, no signs of true premature oxidation. Caramel, butterscotch, honey and citronella flow naturally. Richer here in terms of apricot, green melon, peach to nectarine fruit, lasts fully through the finish. Hint of iron, again more simple stone, spring water and quinine. Very agreeable and approachable, better to appreciate than parse apart. 90 points
Péby Faugères, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Emilion
Blend
1998
$44.99
14.0%
Still some saturated glow left in the purple core, otherwise it’s got some garnet red to it, the rims are a dark magenta red with a thin edge of orange starting to develop, overall clean and not showing much sediment. The nose unleashes huge oak, all coconut oil, dill weed, buttered burnt toast and hard toffee candy, the blackberry, black cherry fruit simple and appears to have dropped off some, blast of mint and flowers, finishes with wet leather and mud but not much here suggests advancing Bordeaux. Medium-bodied, round and mostly smooth, as one might expect the wood creates a grainy texture in addition to bringing flavors of dill, coconut, butterscotch, caramel and cocoa. The black cherry, currant, blackberry fruit fares better here, albeit not more interesting. Flowers, white citrus, menthol and sweet dried herbs, you find a welcome shock of bell pepper, gives it character. Gains more astringency through the finish, smokier with leather and grill ash notes. When you wear too much makeup it’s best that the lights are kept low. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, etc. 88 points
Castillo, Casa
Jumilla, Spain
Las Gravas
Blend
1998
$19.99
14.5%
Unblemished, the core mostly black to dark brick or cough syrup red, not so much purple in there, all kinds of sunset burnt reds around the rims, no denying it’s an older wine but it is shockingly vivid and expressive. The nose is full of farts, peanut shells, wet wool, damp leather and black earth like you expect a handful of worms to crawl out, in turn there’s cocoa nibs, licorice, incense and potpourri, sage and a tight core of hard candy cherry, raspberry fruit. Medium-bodied, takes a fairly long time to open up and convince you it’s not teetering on the edge. When it does, though, it’s quite savory and mouth puckering, energized by a shock of acidity and plenty of tannin on the back end. Black tea, tree bark, leather, wool, pressed flowers, less reductive here but no less aggressive. Roasted but not oaky, at times close to salty. The raspberry, cranberry, pomegranate, elderberry fruit packs more punch through the attack but not dead at the end. While not profound, an experiment well worth the gamble. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Monastrell. 88 points
Sent to Their Grave in January 2012
McPrice Myers Wine Company
Santa Ynez Valley, California
Larner Vineyard
Syrah
2003
$37.99
14.9%
The core remains purple enough to just pass into opacity, beyond that there’s a lot of cough syrup red, brick orange, clay colors, the rims remain deeply hued and intent on impressing. The nose is pretty damn reductive at first, diaper poop, rubber and just plain ass, eventually comes around to potpourri, orange peels and plum, cherry, elderberry fruit scents, menthol and mint, cocoa powder, never quite fully unwinds. Medium-bodied, has clearly slimmed down over the years and gotten down to its core essence. Teases you with the sweet remainder of caramel, vanilla and chocolate, then veers into iron, tomato skin, dried grass, merde and rubber, while not nearly as reductive in the mouth it’s still there. Cinnamon, ginger spice and orange pekoe tea up next, no lack of Italian plum, cherry, currant fruit but it’s not seeking the spotlight. Savory, close to salty, has your licking your lips with each sip. It’s mostly all still there, just more packed together, grab one and let ’er rip. (Composite Cork) 88 points
Michel & Fils, Domaine Louis
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Montée de Tonnerre
Chardonnay
2004
$49.99
12.5%
Basic yellow straw in color, some green flecks, fades some near the rims, more warm glow than richness of hue. The nose remains densely packed, moves albeit slowly, lots of pear, yellow apple, peach, persimmon fruit but not crazy ripeness, violets and anise, lemon curd, more powdered stone and chalk than sharper minerality, chugs ahead more than stretches. Medium-bodied, while it may have lost some sheer intensity the acidity still very much creates a thick skeleton and here can bring out more white grapefruit to lemon citrus and a slight dusting of minerals along with the stones and pebbles. More savory than sweet, the apple, pear, peach, apricot fruit holding on well but not going to do so much longer, there is a fine time to pull the cork. Particularly since it shows no signs of premature oxidation, yippee. Turns more floral through the finish, even more so with warming. Correct and satisfying. 89 points
McPrice Myers Wine Company
Santa Barbara County, California
Grenache
2004
$29.99
15.0%
While close to crystal clear and fully transparent, the core is probably as black as it is purple and gains a brooding quality from the high level of brick in there, the rims are pure crimson, perhaps a mere suggestion of zinc orange. The nose has a mild funk to it, like mud caked straw and tree bark, nothing really “animal” about it, brings sweet mixed citrus tones to the raspberry, red cherry, watermelon fruit scents, light dusting of cocoa powder. In the mouth it is full-bodied and somewhat closed initially, requires some air time to spread its wings. above average tannic weave for its type, likely contributes to the dry finish you at first perceive. Eventually the hard candy sweetness of the raspberry, strawberry, blackberry, apple fruit smooths out the whole. The citrus sort of orange to white grapefruit but here too stays blended. Light eucalyptus to anise touch, less cocoa or mocha stuff. This is likely all you are going to get for development, gulp it while the fruit is still around. 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre. Grapes sourced from Alta Mesa and Larner Vineyards. 88 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Zinfandel
2005
$45.00
16.2%
Blood red to purple core, lots of gunk on the cork bottom and inside of bottle neck but if you are careful pours a clean glass, the rims remain an aged burnt red, more or less transparent throughout. Plum, blackberry, black cherry fruit prominent in the nose, still there’s a touch of stewed tomato too, distracts from the cinnamon, pine, eucalyptus notes, lack of complexity brings the alcohol to the fore. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied yet heavy, clings to the tongue like glue. If there is a word to describe the mouth feel it’s “flat,” lacks true structure while the plum, cherry, blueberry fruit has faded appreciably sapping it of juicy mindless fun. Here’s there white grapefruit to give a moment of zip, the caramel and sweet spices about all the oak you get, you even wish there was more. Not even the herbal twist at the end holds your attention. No great flaws but what it is is over the hill. 84 points
Selbach-Oster
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Zeltinger
Schlossberg
Spätlese AP #21
Riesling
2001
$15.99
9.0%
While transparent there’s a certain fat glow in the yellow to green color which creates an attractively full glass, does dilute at the rims, though, and the surface sheen is just about average. The nose has a small hint of rubber, mostly comprised of orange, pink grapefruit, powdered sugar, rose petals and apricot, peach, pear fruit, brush of whipped cream too, not a lot here as evidence of aging nor to suggest what sort of development might be expected. Medium-bodied, at times feels bigger as it has very good density, if at the expense of a spring to its step. Here the vanilla, whipped cream and even caramel more upfront with less rubber and close to a minimum of minerality. Tangerine, lime, lemon citrus tangy and alive from start to finish. The acidity could break a bit more of a sweat. But you do get some nectarine, pineapple and papaya mixed in with the apricot and peach fruit to create deeper resonance. Not particularly compelling but enjoyable to throw back with abandon. 88 points
Eglise-Clinet, Château L’
Bordeaux, France
Pomerol
La Petite Eglise
Blend
1998
$25.99
12.5%
Scarlet to purple core, immaculate and clean, not a sign of sediment, red to orange clay hued rims, transparency in full effect, coloration suggests age, all else vigorous youth. The nose leans heavily on muddy earth, pebbles, matted grasses and straw, wet wood, horse hide and tree bark, the red cherry to red currant scents have a lean punch, touch of dried lemon peels. Medium-bodied, quite tannic and almost hard at first but does unwind appreciably with air time. There’s some sweetness in the cherry, raspberry, currant to strawberry fruit but not enough length and breadth to suggest that it will outlast the structure. Tree leaves and bark, pine, anise, orange peel, straw and hay, the earthiness is sufficiently dry to stay, err, close to the ground. No glaring flaws nor unbearable rusticity. Seems like a nice guy who hasn’t showered nor shaved for a few days. 75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc. Second label of Château L’Eglise-Clinet. 88 points
Aia Vecchia
Tuscany, Italy
Lagone
Blend
2001
$13.99
13.0%
Clear, if dusky, purple cruise to blood red colored core, more crimsons red to orange rust towards the rims where fully transparent. The nose is all reductive flatulence, peanut shells, mud and decomposing forest floor matter, behind this you get a decent core of red fruits and flowers. In the mouth it’s full-bodied and dry, somewhat flat, however, there’s ample cherry, blackberry, raspberry fruit as well as grapefruit citrus, flowers and pine. Earth and animal hide but not near the funk found in the nose. Cocoa powder and more peanut shells. This wine flummoxes. The cork smells musty. The nose stinks. But in the mouth, and especially with air time, there’s so much fruit and it comes close to cohering. Flawed bottle? Bottle pushed too far into old age? Impossible to tell with assurance. Sometimes it’s fun to find such a tricky bottle. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese. 84 points
Gallet, Henri et Philippe
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Syrah
1999
$55.00
12.5%
Admirably clear light purple core then pure crimson red with a touch of orange at the outer rims. High-toned and penetrating nose of olive pits, leather, black earth, stone and matted grasses, brings more animal hide than bacon, saline, goes light on the red cherry, blackberry fruit, openly knit and dissolves quickly. Light to medium-bodied, highly acidic and mouth puckering, tobacco ash, stone, mineral dust, iron, white grapefruit flavors predominate. You get merde here in addition to the cowhide and leather. As it opens it develops a core of red cherry, raspberry, boysenberry fruit. Texturally stays dry throughout. Kind of wound up and needs real fatty food as counterpoint. 95% Syrah, 5% Viognier. 88 points
Michel, Domaine Robert
Rhône, France
Cornas
La Geynale
Syrah
2006
$80.99
13.0%
Light and clear, just about fully transparent, vestige of purple but mainly brick red to maroon, consistent throughout. Zips right into your nostrils splattering rhubarb, cranberry, red cherry fruit scents, animal fur, merde, iron and saltlick, pressed flowers, not that full but feels ripe and juicy, on the whole pretty clean while can hit a few sauvage notes too. Medium-bodied, round but not soft, has tannin to grip the tongue, blooms into a big perfume too with orange to grapefruit citrus, some cocoa and steady blackberry, raspberry, red cherry fruit, no highs nor lows. The mineral, iron, earth is proportionate to the whole, allows its sappy texture to persist. Grassy lift through the finish. Well-bred and mannered, yet with a semi-rakish side. 91 points
Texier, Eric
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Vieilles Vignes
Syrah
2001
$37.99
13.0%
Burnt sunset red in color, eclipses the purple in the core, close to fully transparent, the rims are blood red with just a hint of orange. The nose is soft and maybe even a bit mute, basic array of raspberry, blackberry, cherry scents, blends in dried flowers, damp brown dirt, sage and marjoram, very pure and to the point of being simple. Medium-bodied, more rugged here in the mouth as the acidity, and to a lesser extent tannin, gets assertive. Sweet raspberry, red cherry fruit abounds, more strawberry than black fruit. Stone, pebbles, dirt, minimal minerals and no leather. Glance of white grapefruit. Clean and linear, penetrates but doesn’t spread widely. Should hold in this state for more than a few years. 89 points
Whitehall Lane
Napa Valley, California
Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$65.00
14.2%
While the liquid is quite clear and there’s barely a trace of sediment there’s so much crimson and orange rust in the purple core that it looks very “serious,” the bricking red takes over for very wide rims, looks like an aged wine with the exception of how clean it is. Explosive nose dripping with juicy blueberry, blackberry, raspberry fruit and caramel, butterscotch, then you get menthol, flowers, mint, orange pekoe tea, sweet maduro cigar wrapper, everything plump and unevolved. Full-bodied with a loose tannic structure and mild acidity, keeps it friendly and approachable yet not flabby. Spiced oranges, cinnamon, clove, cedar, eucalyptus, licorice, sage and thyme lend the mouth entry good complexity. The oak mainly chocolate and butterscotch and not as potent as in the nose. There is a smokiness throughout too. Concentrated and close to dried fruit cherry, blackberry, blueberry, plum flavors last fully through the finish. Increasing herbal notes create lift at the end. Full throttle style, nothing shy here, pulls it off excellently too. 94 points
Clavel, Domaine
Languedoc, France
Coteaux du Languedoc
Terroir de la Mejanelle La Copa Santa
Blend
1998
$22.99
14.0%
The core remains mainly purple but there’s no lack of red rust in there too, the rims a clear brick red to orange hue, manages a brooding appearance even with its fine clarity. There’s beef jerky, barnyard dirt and hay, dried tobacco to the nose, sufficient cocoa to breathe some life into the otherwise fading cherry, blackberry fruit scents. Medium-bodied, dry and semi-tacky mouth feel, here it is certain that the black cherry, blackberry, elderberry fruit is going. Does pull together a credible amount of flowers and dried orange peel to supplement, as well as some of that cocoa. You sense it was tannic back in the day from the way it tends to clog your mouth pores. Some kindling wood, grass and dirt but not coalesced into a thematic whole. That’s the way the cookie crumbles. 80% Syrah, 10% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre. 85 points
Eddy, Tom
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1996
$175.00
13.7%
Super-clean ruby-violet in color, well-hued while also transparent and no opacity, showing more of a young brick red at the rims, looks bottled yesterday. Unassumingly full and powerful nose of wet cedar, saddlesoap, orange pekoe tea, incense, garden herbs, tobacco leaf, close to having a savory quality, hard candy feel in the raspberry, blackberry, red currant scents, overall smells young and fruity. Medium-bodied, has a great tannic weave across the palate yet never dry so as to impede flow. Cedar, sandalwood, tea leaf, orange spice, leather, loam, forest matter give it a rustic patina, just what you want in a still aggressive yet aged Cabernet. The raspberry, blackberry, black cherry fruit both sweet and tangy. You get some vanilla fudge as the largest sign of oak. Keeps coming at you without forcing itself on you. Grapes sourced 46.5% Vyborny Lad Vineyard, 22.1% Pedregal Vineyard, 18.9% Vyborny GF Vineyard, 12.5% Phoenix Vineyard. (1.5 liter bottle) 93 points
Quilceda Creek
Regional Blend, Washington
Cabernet Sauvignon
2000
$74.00
14.9%
Trim ruby-violet core, good consistency through to the red rust rims, no sign of sediment at all, moderate opacity at the core. Sweet nose of super-juicy raspberry, blueberry, boysenberry fruit, maple syrup, caramel, milk chocolate, floral dew, for all that doesn’t seem insanely oaky, probably does seem more so due to the lack of any real tertiary development, shows virtually no aging. Medium to full-bodied, offers cinnamon, ginger, molasses, brown sugar and chocolate. Well-endowed with smooth, yet close to overripe, cherry, blackberry, plum fruit. Some orange zest. No noticeable acidity nor tannin, just an easy, frictionless mouth feel. Here too no sense of development nor where it may go. Kind of like laboratory wine. 97.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2.5% Cabernet Franc. Blended from the Champoux, Ciel du Cheval, Klipsun and Taptiel Vineyards. 88 points
Bea, Azienda Agricola Paolo
Umbria, Italy
Montefalco
Vigna Pipparello
Rosso Riserva
Blend
2001
$61.99
13.5%
Bright and lively ruby hued core with a good bit of orange too, crystal clear, great surface reflectivity, looks about middle aged. Keen nose easily penetrates with minerals, dried brown earth, sour lemons, thyme, fennel, some dried merde, zippy raspberry, strawberry, red cherry fruit scents, very pure with lots of lift. Medium-bodied, fresh acidity helps it vibrate in the mouth, good cleansing power with a focus on lemon to orange zest, stone dust, minerals, cocoa, leather, cedar, a light brine aspect. The tannins subdued. Has forest floor brush but not near seeming green. The raspberry, rhubarb, boysenberry, strawberry fruit has laser precision. Fantastic inner mouth perfume. Fresh finish has you licking your lips long after you’ve swallowed. 60% Sangiovese, 25% Montepulciano, 15% Sagrantino. 92 points
Ducru-Beaucaillou, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Julien
Blend
1974
11.3%
Lots of fine sediment throughout the liquid, still attractive vibrancy in the garnet to brick red core, no real hue diminishment at the rims. The nose remains full of cherry, blackberry fruit as well as cedar, pressed flowers, orange rinds, cigar ash, whiff of merde at first, has good overall push into your nostrils, bit of herbaceousness before dissolves, really nice. Medium-bodied, the tannin have been pulverized and doesn’t effect its basic smooth texture. Dry with a mild dried to candied fruit character, sweetens the cherry, raspberry, almost strawberry fruit, plenty of life. Nicely floral here too, brigs complexity in the form of cedar, dill, iron flecks and a big lemon to grapefruit citrus bite. Everything holds on well after opening. Very relaxed, as if nothing left to prove. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. 90 points
Schweiger
Napa Valley, California
Spring Mountain District
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$45.00
13.9%
Youthfully saturated purple core, segues to broad and luminous ruby red rims, here you see a little of its age with hints of orange and crimson coming through, has thrown lots of sediment so beware of floaties, otherwise clean and reflective surface. The nose is a study in contrasts, on this side buttered popcorn, dill, caramel oak, on that side earth, mountain scrub, cowhide, somewhere in between there’s ripe yet firmly contoured cherry, blackberry, mulberry and persimmon fruit scents, mixes in cedar and tobacco leaf, does not come across as that evolved. Full-bodied, on the dry side yet the tannins have clearly subsided some while all that blackberry, cherry, currant fruit continues to thrive. Less oak here, some caramel and toasted bread as well as ginger to cumin spice, vestige of dill weed. Leather, cedar, tobacco and tea leaf, moments of fried orange peel. Lively yet relaxed and not over eager to ingratiate. Big time inner mouth perfume. Lots of time ahead on this plateau, would easily trade off some fruit for tertiary development. 91 points
Mitolo
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
Serpico
Cabernet Sauvignon
2002
$39.99
15.0%
The purple core comes closer to black than more reddish hues, not fully opaque, the rims on the other hand are all burnt red and orange, nicely full and glowing. At first the oak is overwhelming in the nose before knitting in, coconut, butterscotch, caramel as well as popcorn, mint and fried butter, strong prune edge to the plum, blackberry, cassis fruit scents without seeming too sugared, as it opens develops a pleasing earthiness to anchor the orange blossom and menthol lift, only flaw might be relative shortness and lack of follow-through. Full-bodied, thick and muscular, no real tannic presence but when it moves you feel it ripple. Caramel popcorn, butter, toffee, vanilla fudge, the oak lasts longer here. Prune, golden raisin and date match the plum, cherry, blackberry fruit punch for punch. No earth but twigs and grass instead, wood smoke. Orange reduction, mint and some herbs like basil or oregano. Not hyper-complex yet does sometimes zig when you think it will zag, a definite “guilty pleasure” winner. 90 points
Muré (Clos St. Landelin), René
Alsace, France
Vorbourg
Vendanges Tardives
Gewürztraminer
1997
$19.99
12.5%
Rich orange bronze in color, the core dark enough to even seem red at times, mild translucency helps add heft to the yellowish rims, while the color screams and aged wine the surface sparkles with youthfulness. The nose yields apricot paste, dried peach and nectarine fruit, candied oranges, cinnamon and brown sugar, whipped cream, yet for all of that never seems opulent nor overblown, good firmness in your nostrils. Medium-bodied, likewise in the mouth could pass as either a dessert wine or an aged and concentrated dry table white, has more acidic spine than expected and has good posture and pacing. That said, the years have certainly brought out more honey, dried fruit nature in the apricot, peach, pear, yellow apple, nectarine, mango fruit, same for the orange to pink grapefruit citrus. Here you get some nuttiness and more grape typicity, although none of the aged Gewürztraminer mushroom or earth stuff. Gulpable and falls into the uncritically fun column for sure. 90 points
Mount Langi Ghiran
Victoria, Australia
Riesling
2003
$19.99
13.0%
Shiny and clean yellow hay with both green and white touch, transparent yet does bend light and your vision some, hue diminishes some around the rims. Soft rubber, whipped cream, floral dew, peach, apricot and pear fruit make for a deep and inviting nose, in turn there’s tonic water and minerals as well as a light grassy quality which becomes evident as it warms. Medium-bodied, sets itself squarely in your mouth, you feel it cheek to cheek. Here you get a big elevation in lemon to white grapefruit citrus which plays well off of that vanilla, whipped cream aspect and also teases out more mint, anise and rose petals. Fleshy core of peach, apricot, yellow apple, pear to persimmon fruit topped of by cinnamon to nutmeg spice. The rubber component there yet not as strongly as in the nose. Not developing into something “profound” but remains an extremely fun wine to drink. (Screwcap: Stelvin) 90 points
Failla
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma Coast
Que Syrah Vineyard
Syrah
2001
$38.00
13.5%
Dusky sunset red hued core has enough purple left to just darken it into full opacity, the rims a panoply of burnt orange, red and yellow colors, clearly aged yet vigorous in appearance. The nose is quite high-toned and emphasizes white grapefruit pith, black olives, merde, muddy barnyard earth, wildflowers and sage to marjoram spice, beef jerky with remnants of hard butterscotch and caramel candy, the currant, black cherry fruit scents come off as angular and don’t soak in. Medium-bodied, while on the whole dry very fresh from the lively acidity and bright white grapefruit to blood orange citrus. Likewise, the sourness in the cherry, currant, cranberry fruit and lemongrass, olive pit aspects give it plenty of spine. Still, the fruit has no lack of sweeter ripeness, nothing weak about it, this creates more openness for that caramel to toffee element to spread forth. Finishes with molasses barbecue sauce coated meats and a smoky mouth perfume. Could possibly improve but no real reason to wait. 92 points
Sanguine Estate
Victoria, Australia
Heathcote
Shiraz
2001
$49.99
14.5%
Lots of vibrant purple left in the core with a crimson cast, even more red clay to red rust around the rims, touch of very dark orange, for its above average clarity pools down into the glass well. The nose is a festival of menthol, eucalyptus, licorice, mint and orange blossom, smattering of cinnamon, ginger and other baking spices, even with toffee and vanilla fudge nuances does not push the oak very far, the fruit is ripe in a restrained and contoured manner, plum, blackberry, boysenberry, pomegranate, broad lift as well as lingers well. Medium-bodied, credible acidity with enough tannin, even if wood, savory profile with a big swirling mouth perfume fueled by that menthol, mint, licorice and orange to grapefruit citrus. Cinnamon, nutmeg, clove meld into the toasty profile, here the sweetness crests by the mid-palate and then yields to a chewy dryness by the finish. Pretty much at its peak, take advantage now of its remaining explosiveness. 91 points
Riggs, Mr.
Regional Blend, Australia
Shiraz Viognier
Blend
2003
$52.99
14.5%
The core is an opaque blackish purple which yields to very broad red rust rims, clear and not displaying undue age, some youthful saturation left. The general proportions among scents has stayed in the same in the nose, simply settled down some, butterscotch, menthol, licorice, candied orange peels, lavender, the oak moderate, the plum, blackberry, black currant scents firm and direct, there is an alcoholic lift which detracts a little, otherwise a pleasant and integrated experience. Medium-bodied, quite muscular with noticeable acidity and a drier than expected profile, stains the palate more than soaks in. Semi-sour edge to the blackberry, blueberry, currant fruit, the orange to white grapefruit citrus adds even more tang. The caramel, butterscotch, brown sugar stays in the background to supplement. Touch of earth and straw but not a great deal of development. Still, got to think it’s where it needs to be and no sense in holding much longer. 95% Shiraz, 5% Viognier. 60% Angas Vineyard (Langhorne Creek), 40% Piebald Gully Vineyard (McLaren Vale). 90 points
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