Older Wines Recently Swilled
Note, if you have difficulty finding any particular wine, Hanes recommends trying these websites or Google to help locate them:
Below are tasting notes on wines Hanes has recently imbibed which are not current releases. Please remember that The Hanes Wine Review only covers current release wines being sold in the United States so as to not yank any reader's chains. But don't think that all Hanes ever drinks are current releases. Why, no, he drinketh many older wines as well! So, for those of you who might be interested in reading about how these older wines are drinking at the present moment, forge on ahead. But keep in mind the useful dictum that there are no great wines, only great bottles. These notes represent one bottle, separated at birth from its siblings and your bottle may taste quite differently based on a host of factors. Also note that the prices for older wines tasted will vary greatly, depending on if the wine was purchased on release or more recently. So, take the noted price with a grain of salt.
Sent to Their Grave in February 2010
Phelps, Joseph
Napa Valley, California
Insignia
Blend
1997
$110.00
13.8%
Dusky purple core, opaque but nowhere near black, easy crimson to brick red rims, very lively and not showing much age. Wet cedar, damp earth, slight metallic ring, followed on by milk chocolate, toffee, the currant, cherry fruit remains firm yet pliant, develops some florality but it’s really still densely packed or not going to unwind. Medium-bodied with a good deal of tannin that cakes the tongue, as well as join up with oaky vanilla powder, cocoa powder and various other dry substances. The plum, black currant, cherry fruit solid if not stolid. While it has credible structure, doesn’t seem to be pointing it in any given direction. Its weight and momentum throws you back on your heels, after that you may not notice what actually gets delivered. Opens to a point, just throws you back. All things considered, you might not want to push it too far more. 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot. 89 points
Banfi, Castello
Tuscany, Italy
Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello
1997
$49.99
13.0%
Semi-flat purple core, the clarity only evident through the burnt orange to crimson rims, about average surface shine. The nose has a bruiser’s demeanor, slugs its way in there without much of a plan as to do next, plum, cherry scents avoid pruney notes, strong orange peel and floral musk, the sweet oak appears to have knit in, shows little sign of positive evolution towards something not present in its youth. Medium-bodied and has noticeably lost some weight, even now it’s got a jiggle though. The acidity is slight and the tannin isn’t much better. The plum, cherry, currant fruit remains centerstage, Orange peel, floral fragrance, too dry for the oak to sustain caramel or vanilla flavorings. Maybe shows some cedar. Has become muddied over the years, good as a “red wine” but little here expresses Brunello. Which one supposes is why one laid down the fidy in the first place. 88 points
Pride Mountain
Sonoma County, California
Cabernet Franc
2000
$52.00
14.1%
Slight film to the red-orange brick influenced purple core, lots of sediment caught during the decant, crimson rims show only moderate aging. In the nose while caramel, butterscotch pave the way, the floor is ceded to incense musk, cedar, orange peel, mountain scrub shades alongside somewhat diminished plum, currant, cherry scents, nice because now it has to fight for your attention rather than just expect it, at times you almost imagine bell pepper. Medium-bodied, manages to stay upright with little evidence of acidity or tannin, except a pulverized dustiness. Flowers, orange citrus and menthol breathe life into otherwise moribund black cherry, currant, blackberry fruit. Heavy butterscotch, caramel, buttered popcorn, subsides some at the end. What’s kind of most interesting is how it shifts, at times pedestrian, at times catches your fancy. That said, easy to say there’s no real upside left. 75% Cabernet Franc, 25% Merlot. 88 points
Cornerstone
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Cornerstone Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$79.99
15.6%
The core remains a deep purple in hue, rims about equal parts magenta and brick red, not especially older looking, good surface shine. Nice Cabernet profile in the nose, black currant and cherry fruit, cedar, caramel, kindling smoke, hint of old potpourri musk, not that complex nor longlived but satisfying in a direct, guileless manner. Medium-bodied, a touch faded, loses its grip through the finish. Tannins remain dusty yet no longer in the driver’s seat. The cedar, sandalwood, potpourri here met by a metallic edge, along with tomato skins, inhibits inner mouth perfume. Through the first half no problem with the plum, currant, cherry fruit, deep and not too sweet, were there more length you’d likely get prune notes. You can tell it’s a thoughtfully made wine but at the same time the subtleties do not compensate for the fact it’s like four times more expensive than it should be. 87 points
Highlands
Napa Valley, California
Rutherford
Hozhoni Vineyard
Syrah
2003
$23.99
13.2%
Dark purple core, excellent clarity but opaque, dark red-magenta, plays the part of a middle-aged wine well. Sandalwood, cedar, driftwood, some oak spice but nothing overt, the plum, cherry scents touched lightly by prune accents, burst of floral musk, very subtle meaty notes, balance and reserve its most compelling aspect. Medium-bodied, quite acidic, helps it remain refreshing, especially given its age. At first there’s a good deal of butterscotch, caramel popcorn going on but as it opens this mostly dissipates. Strong white grapefruit presence. Tart red raspberry, cherry, cranberry fruit, while not deep per se in no danger of fading, lasts fully through the finish. At the end you get a sense of the pulverized tannin residue and there’s visual evidence of sediment on the bottle’s neck. Tastes like “cool climate” Syrah, has a leanness and sense of direction over trying to cram as much fruit in as possible. Strikes you as an overachiever, got as much out of the grapes as nature would allow. 88 points
Pavillon-Mercurol (Stéphane Cornu), Domaine du
Rhône, France
Crozes Hermitage
Syrah
2001
$11.99
13.0%
Filmy but not necessarily throwing sediment, dull reddish purple core, further out there’s strong bricking with lots of orange and yellow hues. The nose has the wet clumpy dustiness of many older wines, dry but sticky, stewed tomatoes and metallic notes there, yet, recede before plum/prune, currant fruit scents, flowers and tilled brown earth and cracked leather, fair amount of pungency yet. Medium-bodied, the tannins have been crushed to a pulp which lends it a dusty texture and there’s insufficient acidity to give it kick. Allowing for this, the core of plum, prune, fig, currant, blackberry fruit makes a good showing of it. Grapefruit pith and faded flowers next, some underbrush, not much suggesting a “sauvage” nature. Does dry out a little at the end, however, for a closeout at $7.56 wholesale in December 2009, damn good value. 88 points
Argiano
Tuscany, Italy
Solengo
Blend
1996
$55.00
13.0%
Clear scarlet-purple core, carefully poured no sediment showing, strong brick red around the rims with a tinge of orange, looks aged but not appreciably so. The nose has gained in complexity and has a loosely knit feel, pine, orange peel, rosemary, basil herbs, licorice, as much fig, date and raisin as cherry and blackberry, more composure than flash, has length but not long per se. Medium-bodied, the tannin has been ground down to a fine powder, however, the acidity can put a charge in your mouth. Potpourri, pine, licorice and sweet herbs frame the attack, there’s dried fruit concentration to the cherry, plum, blackberry fruit but not the sweetness for prune or raisin notes. After this, the orange, white grapefruit citrus elevates. Some leafy, woody accents, not earthy. It does stumble a bit through the finish, however, it deserves kudos for representing itself in a mature, collected manner befitting its age. 25% Sangiovese, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Syrah, 25% Merlot. 91 points
Trimbach
Alsace, France
Hommage à Georgette Trimbach
Pinot Gris
1996
$59.99
14.0%
Deep golden color resists turning amber, clear with a faint gauziness, holds on very credibly through the rims, looks “middle aged plus.” Beautifully pungent nose, powerful in its maturity, pineapple, papaya, nectarine, apricot fruit in full control, thick floral musk, spoonfuls of fresh honey, mint leaf, gentle smokiness a tickle of minerality, nothing here suggests being over the hill nor oxidation of any sort, lasts effortlessly. Medium-bodied, finely balanced with the acidity like a chaperone, making sure everyone behaves yet at times looks the other way during slow dances. Ginger, cinnamon spice along with honey and glazed lemon peels add sparkle to the attack, leading into a floral lift. The latter relieves much weight and sweetness in the pineapple, pear, nectarine, apricot fruit, not as tropical here as in the nose. Streamwater, washed pebbles glisten, not one for a metallic edge. Tightens its weave through the finish, pushing forward for a few more yards. Spectacular today, if this bottle is representative, quite a few years ahead. 94 points
Sent to Their Grave in January 2010
Bürklin-Wolf, Weingut Dr.
Pfalz, Germany
Ruppertsberger
Gaisböhl
Spätlese Trocken AP #46
Riesling
1998
$38.99
13.0%
Crystal clear, vibrant amber gold in color, has held onto a slight green tinge, the rims do lose some hue intensity. The nose is aggressive and forceful with pineapple, guava, nectarine fruit accompanied by mandarin orange, white grapefruit, lemon citrus, displays a mint or anise edge, touch of sauna stone smoke and some rubber tire, overall just settles in there like it has the deed and you’re the squatter. Medium-bodied, dry and acidic in a powdery manner. This conditions the zestiness of the grapefruit, lemon citrus, ratchets it up ten levels. The pineapple, papaya, nectarine, peach fruit zings you big time. As it warms the herbaceousness grows, even suggests bell pepper. Mineral smoke consistent, solid role player. Clenches through the mid-palate, not sure if a product of youth or forever to be bunched up in nature. Leaves you unsure which, better to simply take it at face value. 90 points
Maculan
Veneto, Italy
Dindarello
Moscato
2006
$11.99
11.5%
Presents a washed out golden core, transparent with moderate dullness, manages to hold what hue is there through the rims. Poached apricot, pear swirl in the nose first, honey glaze, brown sugar, candied tangerine and lime, mint, floral musk, just relentlessly assaults your nostrils, seemingly immortal presence there. Medium-bodied, not as heavy as expected, all bright honey, orange marmalade, butterscotch and crème brûlée. Very fluid, glides given dessert wine level thickness, mid-tempo progression. Lots of acidity to keep it lively. The mint, violets and gregarious apricot, peach, nectarine, papaya, red apple fruit positively glistens. Caramel lifts through the finish. Effortless presentation. 375 ml bottle. 91 points
Fèvre, Domaine William
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Valmur
Chardonnay
2000
$45.99
13.0%
Clear light gold color, shiny and not betraying much age, only minor hue loss around the rims. Strong nose with muscular penetration, thick lemon peel, stone slabs and streamwater, favors rose petal led florality over crisper minerality, fully ripened peach, apricot, pear scents are completely at the height of their powers, overall maintains purity and clarity with only the merest suggestion of honey or bread. Medium-bodied, fairly loosely knit and open, spreads itself gently across the palate. The florality is even higher here with sweetly zesty orange, lemon citrus. The acidity is very fine, dries in dabs rather than go on the attack. More minerally here, even if this relents in favor of chalk and white stone powder. Nicely ripe pear, red apple, peach fruit. Just beautiful. 94 points
Fèvre, Domaine William
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Les Clos
Chardonnay
2000
$49.95
13.0%
Reflective straw gold in color, transparent, especially at rims devoid of hue, no real sign of aging. Semi-tight nose, almost all stone, chalk, sparkles with very fine mineral dust and lemon pith, gets close to white grapefruit, even the floral aspect is crisp, touch of fruit pit to the pear, peach scents, shade of pineapple too, turns a touch gentler as it dissolves. Full-bodied, muscular and arguably somewhat young. Dry the acid, not biting, like a big old sponge. Here you get a short burst of honey and dough which suggests a truncated future. Right now, though, lemon, orange grapefruit in the fore, violets. Less of a metallic edge to the minerals, more water and stone. Stays on a clearly demarcated path start to finish. Capable of improvement but it’s a roll of the dice if that improvement wins the race against the evil spectre of premature oxidation. 92 points
Amirault, Yannick
Loire, France
Saint-Nicolas de Bourgueil
Les Malgagnes
Cabernet Franc
2005
$21.99
14.0%
Aggressively opaque purple core, not gonna try to go black, just be as dark as purple can get, super-saturated red-magenta rims, sleek surface. No avoiding the merde and peanut shells in the nose upon first opening, over time stabilizes into consistent plum, cherry scents, garrigues and wildflowers, cocoa powder, minimal herbaceous or bell pepper shades, beyond that funk built to please. Medium-bodied, has the tannic skeleton to create an impression of size which lasts beyond mere palate weight. Any white grapefruit or orange citrus sweet and zesty. The currant, cherry, blackberry fruit not spectacular but certainly no slouch and there when you need it. Moderate stone, earth qualities but nothing close to grassy, mild dustiness at the end the most terroir you get. Not showing any glaring lacks yet needs to round up into something more than plump fruit and tannin. Odds seem to be in its favor to improve. 88 points
Jota, La
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Petite Sirah
1997
$38.00
14.1%
Smidge of red-ruby to the purple core, above average width to the crimson to brick red rims, no sign of sediment, spotless liquid. Vanilla ice cream and toasted coconut in the nose the oak calling card, the roastiness evokes grill fat, tanned belt leather, blends in wildflowers and dried mint, the blackberry, black cherry fruit scents sturdy but succinct. Medium-bodied, the tannin has mostly resolved, however, some grit to be found. While possessed of a hard candy sweetness, the blackberry, raspberry, cherry fruit does not quite last fully through the finish. Hence, there’s much more room for the vanilla powder, butterscotch, coconut and cocoa powder, a little too much. Earthy and leathery, less animality here, more herbaceous bite. The more you sip the more the white grapefruit to lemon citrus becomes apparent. Flavors notwithstanding, palate weight consistent to the end. More expressive when initially popped than an hour or so later, suggesting that Charlie Parker was right, now’s the time. 88% Petite Sirah, 12% Viognier. 88 points
Texier, Eric
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Vieilles Vignes
Syrah
1999
$51.99
13.0%
Opaque purple core, slightly dusky but little sign of anything but very fine sediment, the rims extra-dusky, crimson to brick red, hardly differs from the core. There’s a raw directness to the nose, not closed, yet doesn’t offer an extra word, displays ground grass powder, mineral dust, snappy raspberry and red cherry scents, white grapefruit, opens a little into floral perfume, more leather than anything gamey, ends with ash and yesterday’s charcoal dust. Medium-bodied, taut, more or less a laserlight show in the mouth, even in spite of the tannic powder coating the palate. The acidity slices the red currant, pomegranate, cranberry fruit to slices. The white grapefruit, lemon citrus glitters. The herbaceousness is off the hook but not offensive. Minerals, olive pit, graphite, cowhide and saddle leather. Merde like a closed bag full, builds and builds. The fruit really pulls through at the end, lifts dramatically. 92 points
Texier, Eric
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Vieilles Vignes
Syrah
2000
$37.99
12.5%
Small purple core with a medicinal red edge, very clear if dull brick red rims, noticeably transparent. Fair degree of flatulence in the nose but the very strong lift releases the pressed flowers, orange/grapefruit citrus, rawhide and damp earth notes, has a nice hard candy nature to the red cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit scents, you get a meadow, field grass and scrub brush aspect yet not “green,” ends with a rising smokiness. Medium-bodied, the acidity has enough intensity to keep it alive in the mouth even as the flavors struggle to reach the finish. The cranberry, raspberry fruit on the sour side, contributes to the pucker factor. Conversely, the grapefruit, lemon citrus not as invasive as expected. Give credit to the florality, fights to the end. A honey or molasses aspect provides respite at the end. Decidedly gets better with air time, starts to get on the same page while also gaining additional clarity. 89 points
Jasmin, Domaine Patrick
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Syrah
1999
$39.99
12.5%
High degree of blackness to the purple core, appreciably gains in transparency closer to the rims, dried blood red with an incipient touch of zinc orange. Showing a lot of funk in the nose, peanut shells and farts, hard to get past it, sour mandarin orange, cocoa powder nuances blend with stone shards (no dust), the blackberry to cherry scents semi-angular, wildflowers and licorice help it spread out some, however, never really separates into clear elements. Medium-bodied, has a firmer core than expected and achieves both balance and youthful vigor. Leather, animal fur, not quite “foxy” but close. Tannin percolates steadily but it’s the acidity which really throws a punch. The currant, cranberry, raspberry fruit erect but not able to outlast the structure to the finish. Pink grapefruit, tangerine citrus has a sweetening presence. Heavy on stones, minerals as it opens and the fruit recedes. Burnt kindling smoke present but not woody. At times, a bit too much going on, even given its bound-up state. Needs tome, even with a so-so showing today one believes the fruit will last over the longer haul. 89 points
Petaluma
South Australia, Australia
Clare Valley
Hanlin Hill
Riesling
2006
$11.99
13.0%
Super clean simple gold color, high degree of surface reflectivity with plenty of light bending below. Lots of firmness to the nose, admirably deep rubber accents alongside lemon peel, wet slate and chalk, the floral dimension softens things but there’s not much thrust in the peach, apricot fruit scents to team up here, very good length but not that much breadth. Full-bodied, sets itself squarely in your mouth like it wants you to try and knock it over. Here there’s a creaminess which is at odds with the rest, as if just when you think the acidity is going to hit you with 100 watts, it’s dimmed down to 75 watts. Stone, chalk, lemon peel and mineral water remain the primary focus but, again, needs more laser precision. The apricot, pear, apple fruit rises a notch, florality about the same. The rubber element not as obvious until the retronasal action kicks in. A nice expression of Aussie Riesling but nowhere near the apex. (Screwcap: Stelvin) 87 points
Dauvissat, Domaine René et Vincent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Les Preuses
Chardonnay
2000
$73.99
13.0%
There’s a deepening towards amber at the core while still remaining mainly straw gold, looks like a maturing wine yet the rims so empty you could get mixed signals, retains a touch of surface shine. Ever wary of premature oxidation, the nose does give you some honey and bread, however, and especially with air time, it recedes in favor of mint, pressed flowers and peach pits, powdery mineral dust lingers most as it fades away. Medium-bodied, as in the nose, the dough, croissant, honey glaze notes most evident when first opened and, if they don’t fade, other elements rise up to diminish this component. Lemon water, wet pebbles, chalk set easily, utilizes mint, rose petals to pretty things up a notch. The fruit close to absent, peach, apple, pear echoes. The acidity possesses its full strength and helps the wine stay on point. This wine was more impressive on release, that said, given the choice of popping it now or waiting longer, the former appears to be the correct choice. Happy with the outcome today. 91 points
Alternatively you can continue on to read tasting notes on other older wines Hanes has put out of their misery.