Older Wines Recently Swilled
Note, if you have difficulty finding any particular wine, Hanes recommends trying these websites or Google to help locate them:
Below are tasting notes on wines Hanes has recently imbibed which are not current releases. Please remember that The Hanes Wine Review only covers current release wines being sold in the United States so as to not yank any reader's chains. But don't think that all Hanes ever drinks are current releases. Why, no, he drinketh many older wines as well! So, for those of you who might be interested in reading about how these older wines are drinking at the present moment, forge on ahead. But keep in mind the useful dictum that there are no great wines, only great bottles. These notes represent one bottle, separated at birth from its siblings and your bottle may taste quite differently based on a host of factors. Also note that the prices for older wines tasted will vary greatly, depending on if the wine was purchased on release or more recently. So, take the noted price with a grain of salt.
Sent to Their Grave in June 2008
Ridge
Dry Creek Valley, California
Lytton Estate
Grenache
1999
$21.99
14.7%
While the surface is quite shiny, the purple core, if unblemished, is dull and the violet reaches through to the ruby rims to darken them and stifle brightness. Even with an underlying foundation of mountain grasses, pine and eucalyptus, it is the raspberry, red cherry fruit which leads the nose, the sweetness covering over the earthiness, no obvious oak present but there’s some destabilizing alcoholic fumes. Medium-bodied, while the acidity is so-so, the tannins alive and kicking and add a general dryness to the palate. The candied sweetness in the cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit doesn’t last much past the attack, becomes sourer with the advent of grassiness, lemon zest and pine sap. More stone accents here but still not earthy. Stifled florality as if it was there once. Probably losing tightness in the weave, that said, it’s consistent and doesn’t over-promise at any point. 78% Grenache, 17% Zinfandel, 5% Petite Sirah. 89 points
Fleur de Boüard, La
Bordeaux, France
Lalande de Pomerol
Blend
1999
$21.99
13.5%
Dark purple crosses with ease into opacity in the core, the ruby rims heavy set enough, only moderate reddening. Big, plump plum, currant, blackberry fruit scents with wet cedar, orange peel, dark chocolate, flowers, very forward and flashy, ends with burst of bell pepper. Full-bodied, round and fleshy with more juicy currant, plum fruit. The tannins are slightly woody and drying. Along these lines the orange peel notes are drier as are the flowers, cedar and tobacco smoke. More minerally yet not truly earthy. Takes on an angular feel past the mid-palate and this shortens the finish some. But the fruit lasts all the way so it stays flavorful. Doesn’t convince you more development is on the way. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc. 88 points
Switchback Ridge
Napa Valley, California
Peterson Family Vineyard
Petite Sirah
1999
$53.99
14.5%
Inky black core, when you get the purple it’s only along the super-thin rims, crowding out the ruby-magenta, sleek surface too. The nose has not changed dramatically from its youth, more so settled into itself and not as showy, remains mostly plum, cassis, blackberry fruit with supporting caramel, hot butterscotch and coconut custard, separates and lifts with notes of pine, wildflowers and orange peel, no heat discernible. Full-bodied and considerably thick, pours into your mouth as much as you sip it. Sugary sweet blackberry, plum, cherry fruit, however, it is strangely front-loaded and more or less gone by the finish fruit-wise, just sugary echoes. The caramel, vanilla ice cream oak flavors subdued by now, fits overall sweet profile. Again, offers indistinct citric and floral notes. No sign of tertiary development, depends on weight and momentum to impress. Would impress the impressionable. 88 points
Graillot, Domaine Alain
Rhône, France
Crozes Hermitage
La Guiraude
Syrah
1999
$26.99
13.0%
The dark purple core does not show any sediment or grit but there’s a haziness like after you look right into the sun and can’t focus right, the rims mainly red ruby but deepened by encroaching violet too. The nose pretty much evenly split between juicy red cherry, cranberry fruit and green olives, beef jerky, salt and leather, the more you sniff the flowers favor the fruit while the herbal qualities favor the latter group, either way clean with nice lift. Medium-bodied, certainly has slimmed down but for the best. More transparency found in the stone, brown earth, olive pit, dried game and grass, the raucous acidity wants to dance with everything separately. The cherry, raspberry fruit flits about but doesn’t sneak. With the end in sight, whips out orange/lemon citrus and dried flowers. Lots of retronasal activity and your lips be smacking too. Could go further but why? 91 points
Ridge
Sonoma Valley, California
Pagani Ranch
Zinfandel
1997
$28.49
14.6%
While it retains most of its youthful clarity there’s a slight fuzziness to the purple core, the rims have as much ruby as brick red, not a puppy but not past middle age either. There’s a nice leathery, smoky edge to the nose, earthy enough too to restrict the sugar in the plum/prune, golden raisin, orange peel scents, mixes in sweet herbs, green apple, dark chocolate with pleasing relief from a floral lift. Full-bodied, shrugs off weight as it moves into more fighting trim. The plum, cherry, boysenberry fruit flirts with dried fruit nature, however, has the acidity to retain a pleasant sour bite and freshness. Friendly border treaty between the menthol, eucalyptus and tart orange/lemon citrus. Shows a stripe of molasses but not as overripe as expected. After a glass or so you realize the tannin is still puttering about. 88% Zinfandel, 7% Mataro, 3% Petite Sirah, 2% Alicante Bouschet. 89 points
Allegrini
Veneto, Italy
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Superiore
Blend
1997
$79.99
15.0%
Sort of grimy, helps develop opacity in the dull purple core, the rims are aging into red and brown shades, full in spite of older coloration. Ohmigod, the nose is positively slathered in molasses, caramel, honey, toffee, if it isn’t soft and sweet it isn’t there, wisps of cinnamon, orange marmalade and dark chocolate too, the plum, cassis, blackberry scents sugary but drying out and losing juiciness. Full-bodied, all dried fruit of prune, raisin, dates in addition to orange reduction, ginger, cinnamon and cedar. No tannin, acidity gurgles from time to time. The chocolate powder dusts throughout. Floral finish and kinda lemony too. Keeps coming at you, seriously slutty wine. If you read Maxim, it’s for you. Unspecified percentages of Corvina, Molinara, Rondinella. 88 points
Darviot-Perrin, Domaine
Burgundy, France
Meursault
Clos de la Velle
Chardonnay
2000
$27.99
13.0%
The coloration isn’t dark per se but the gold has taken on an obvious orange tinge, a translucent layering helps extend the hue towards the rims. Lemon sponge cake, nuts, rose petals, mint leaf and honey glazed dough make for a sweetly approachable nose, that said, the stoniness interferes with the apricot, nectarine, apple fruit, thus neither settles in and it all flutters away after a few ticks. Full-bodied, sweeter and more reduced in the mouth, like water and oil, the parts feel like they are separating in your mouth. Nutty and doughy here too but notes of mineral water, pebbles show feistiness. Tart orange marmalade edge helps too. The acidity is average yet capable of smoothing out some rough patches. Near the end the separation brings clarity to cinnamon, more lemon to lime citrus and pressed flowers. Serviceable, each sip not the same, helps. 88 points
Péby Faugères, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Emilion
Blend
1999
$59.99
14.0%
The darkness of the purple core does not obscure its cleanliness, fades steadily into thick ruby rims, deepened yet by a violet hue. There’s a steady stream of flowers, pencil lead, hard stone and packed earth in the nose, nothing annoying about the degree of caramel or coffee bean oak notes, the red currant, cherry scents broad but not overwhelming, Full-bodied, enters the mouth with authority, the tannins seem to plaster it onto your mouth roof and let it drip onto the tongue from there. Here more caramel and toffee to swirl into the cherry, raspberry fruit without it becoming confectionary. Tea leaf, sweet tobacco, graphite, orange peel and a healthy dash of grass and even bell pepper pleasingly surprise. While a very good drop today holds credible promise for development over next 4-6 years or so. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, etc. 90 points
Failla-Jordan
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma Coast
Que Syrah Vineyard
Syrah
2000
$48.00
13.6%
Soft cloudiness in the ruby-violet core, takes across the divide into opacity land, the rims still based in ruby but darkening into more red garnet too. Candied cherries and raspberries lead in the nose, smoky with tobacco ash and wet wood smoke as well as white grapefruit and merde accents, when the floral dimension opens it brings with it some sweet oak notes too. Full-bodied with an openly knit construction which helps it feel more fluffy than dense. The dulcet raspberry, cherry, even strawberry fruit leads the pack here too, however, as the acidity gains traction the white grapefruit to lemon citrus and metallic minerality shines. More grassy too without ever approaching herbaceousness. Close to this are green olives and that kindling smoke thing., growing accents of ash and dried tobacco leaf through finish. Not superlative in any one area but adds up to a wine that’s just fun to drink. 90 points
Remizières, Domaine des
Rhône, France
Hermitage
Cuvée Emílié
Syrah
1999
$55.99
13.0%
Plainly put purple core with a hint of ruby, throwing a lot of sediment so be careful how you pour, the rims pure ruby and betray little, if any, aging. The nose comprised mostly of freshly pressed raspberry, blackberry juice, however, there’s and odd rubbery note before slides into molasses, maple syrup and pressed flowers, few signs of development thus keeps the fruit front and center. Medium-bodied, not as plush as the nose might suggest, tannin does a credible job of craving the red cherry, raspberry fruit down to size. This in turn allows the components of grass, stone, mixed citrus and olive pit to surface better. No real gaminess, trade off might be the oaky sweetness lower here too. More dried wildflowers as it nears the end. Good wine, no fatal flaws, nothing brilliant to recommend it either. 88 points
Kruger-Rumpf, Weingut
Nahe, Germany
Münsterer
Pittersberg
Spätlese
Riesling
1994
$36.99
Mostly transparent yellow straw color, faint glow to it, average shine across the surface. Gentle nose of mint oil, rubber, licorice, poached apricot, peach, pear fruit, very openly knit in spite of the richness of the assorted scents. Full-bodied, deep and soft, sinks fully into your mouth pores, excellent sweetness without “sugariness” per se, the acidity remarkably active and toys with the honey, orange glaze, floral dew and mint elements so that they come in and out more than remain constant. Succulent peach, apricot, pear and nectarine fruit which bulls through more consistently to the finish. Sticks the landing smoothly too. 90 points
Peay Vineyards
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma Coast
Marsanne/Roussanne
Blend
2005
$36.99
13.8%
Has a somewhat unfiltered kind of gauziness to the yellow day-glo color, enough depth to fill out the rims too. Fine richness in the nose with a non-oaky creaminess, scents of tangerine, mint, light honey, not a lot of stoniness yet has freshness, there’s softness in the peach, apricot, pear scents, semi-evanescent as a result. Medium-bodied, even creamier and softer here in the mouth. Features tangerine, orange sherbet, mint and pressed flowers, the acidity starts off well but cannot provide shape and direction to the apricot, pear, yellow apple, melon fruit. Easygoing and ripe without pushing it too far, reclines gently into your tongue. 60% Marsanne, 40% Roussanne. 88 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Mendocino County, California
Alder Springs Vineyard
The Emerald Pool
Syrah
2004
$75.00
16.2%
Onyx black core, incredibly glowing red-magenta to ruby colored rims, attractively reflective surface. The nose is somewhat reticent at first, slowly opens into coffee bean, bacon fat, flowers, grill smoke, nothing unduly showy about the ripeness in the cherry, raspberry scents. Medium-bodied, quickly furnishes velvety currant, plum, blackberry fruit alongside coffee ice cream, dark chocolate and molasses flavors. Moves on to orange to lemon citrus as well as big, growing florality. The tannins suave and easily knit into the whole, any unyielding feel to it due to its primary density. Remains very sweet through the finish. A quality backrub but not a workout. 88 points
Tremblay (Domaine des Iles), Gérard
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Vaudésir
Chardonnay
2000
$24.99
13.0%
Advanced golden hue with distinct amber tint, neither especially clear nor filmy, the depth of the aged color the determining factor towards dullness. The nose too reveals advancement, all baking dough, honey, orange marmalade, sweet baking spices which makes it heavy set, displays some mint and stone accents but there’s no real smokiness to aid lift, guileless peach, apricot, pear fruit scents. Full-bodied, big and round, its mid-section has gone to pot, nothing the still above average acidity can whip into shape. The stone, mineral water aspects have to hurry to show during the attack for the honey, dough, molasses, cinnamon flavors flood the tongue swiftly thereafter. The pear, melon, apricot fruit not quite reduced but without much snap. Actually quite long, no problem in the general flavor department, just miss the focus and verve of its youth. 87 points
Michel & Fils, Louis
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Montmain
Chardonnay
2000
$27.99
12.5%
There’s a flatness through the orange-gold color which lends itself to translucency, holds full through the rims making for a solid, blockish appearance in the glass. While not exactly dominant, there’s no avoiding the honey and baked dough notes in the nose, followed on by lemon drop, wet slate and pressed flowers, ripe yet aged feel in the peach, apple, pear fruit as if picked and then left in a cold, dark basement for months. Full-bodied, has let the belly go over recent years, preferred to go buy a new belt. As opposed to the nose, here the acidity can marshal the seashells and chalk some. Dryness brings sour kick to the lemon peel, nice. By the mid-palate when you exhale the honey and pie dough back in effect. Semi-poached feel in the apricot, peach, yellow apple fruit slows it down way before the finish. Dried flowers linger through finish. Not as disappointing as many of its brethren but still, where’s the snap, crackle and pop? 88 points
Lesec Sélections, Patrick
Rhône, France
Cornas
Sarah
Syrah
1999
$40.99
12.5%
Flat black purple core, no real sign of sediment nor filminess, dull ruby with only a suggestion of bricking. Flatulence, bagged cut grass, olive pits, black earth comprise most of the nose, lesser amounts of molasses crisp, orange glazed meat, dried flowers, the currant, cherry, plum scents smoked into dryness. Medium-bodied, hard to tell but it feels like it has lost a lot of weight since its youth. has the olive, game, merde, orange peel elements but not the density in the currant, cherry fruit to ground it. The acidity and tannins credible but do not contribute to any “sauvage” character. With more sips the oak toast and dill notes come out. Lack of concentration probably accentuates sourness. More modern in style, not attacking you for the sheer fun of it as you would want. 87 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma Coast
Griffin’s Lair
Syrah
2003
$49.99
15.5%
Fully opaque purple core, black enough to be dulled some, equally thick crimson rims with all the ruby bleached out. The nose has a distinct mesquite smoke, honey glaze and orange reduction character, traces of potpourri and bacon fat, the plum and cherry scents balanced by a few rubbery notes. Full-bodied, hard to imagine it more thickly layered, close to no tannic nor acidic punch, makes it move even less. Vanilla fudge, molasses, toffee, butterscotch abound, yet even the oak has difficulty lifting and achieving separation. Minty and more floral here, the orange to lemon citrus stand out more as well. The dry plum, cherry, blackberry fruit is flavorful, if not especially juicy. Keeps its weight through the finish as expected, mouth quite parched by the end. Good enough for throwing back in shot glasses, too heavy to chug. 87 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
The Other
Petite Sirah
2003
$50.00
15.1%
Pure onyx black core, any purple pushed way out to the thin rims where ruby brightens the hue. Very flowery, perfumed nose, doses of white pepper too, waft of vanilla ice cream and toast, minimal earthiness or other balancing elements to the currant, plum, black cherry fruit, rich and round and friendly with a pleasingly airy dissolve. Medium to full-bodied, spicy and peppery and decently tannic, releases into a big floral musk as well as lemon/orange peel. More rocky and stony than leathery, depends a great deal on the purity and fast paced flow of the plum, black currant, cherry fruit. The floral dimension continues to dominate and create lift. Approachably consistent and smooth. 89 points
Colle dei Venti
Piedmont, Italy
Barolo
Tùfo blu
Nebbiolo
1999
$37.99
14.0%
Black core, really no purple left if it was ever there, the broad rims fashioned of burnt red, orange and yellow the further out, not quite dull but appears aged. So much black licorice to menthol in the nose you think it was artificially added, once you adjust to the Vicks there’s wildflowers and cinnamon and a moderate burst of red cherry, raspberry fruit. Full-bodied with a supple texture, not round, the tannin elongates it for the better. The licorice thing still going on, more rose-like flowers as well as mixed citrus. Both candied and roasted character to the cherry, blackberry fruit, sweet and sticky as well as smoky. Dash of boot leather and merde, yet achieves what it can be the mid-palate and carries on the same from there. That said, ends with echoes of honey and molasses. You have to like them sweet here. 85 points
Bologna, Vitivinicola Braida di Giacomo
Piedmont, Italy
Barbera d’Asti
Bricco dell’Uccellone
Barbera
1996
$35.99
14.0%
Flat black colored core, in spite of darkness retains full clarity, evident through the more burnt crimson rims, some attenuation at the outermost reaches. The nose a tangle of matted straw and wildflowers, more stone than earth, while the plum, cherry, currant fruit forms a solid bottom, overall the nose stays airy with lift. Full-bodied, if a little hollow in the middle, immediately leaves the impression of an older wine which has developed interesting tertiary elements while at the same time losing heft. More acidity than tannin left at this juncture, the tannin there seems to be wood tannin. Orange citrus and flowers with only bursts of leather or earth, the more it sits in the mouth the more the oak toast and dill notes accrete. The cherry, raspberry fruit more “red” in nature here, lighter and dissolves rapidly through the finish. Not a bad wine per se, and has indubitably hung on credibly, but still a few years past its heartiest prime. 86 points
Roty, Domaine Joseph
Burgundy, France
Marsannay
Les Ouzeloy
Pinot Noir
2001
$36.99
13.0%
Reddish-brown tint lightens the basic purple core, rims take on a dusky, semi-washed out red cast, however, the liquid is clear with no signs of sediment. At first there’s some sulfur-like notes in the nose but this blows off and muddy earth, leather accents grow in stature, the plum, cherry scents round and last well if on the dry side, more straw and hay than citrus or flowers. Medium-bodied with enough heft to roll forward with force, fine tannic punch, takes some time to open and lengthen on the finish. Bits of licorice, flower petals pretty up the earthiness. As in the nose there’s mud, earth and merde, however, in proportion to the whole. The cherry, blackberry fruit more dense than lively, certainly persists to the very end. Pushes outwards against the cheeks well. In a good place and should stay there for at least 2-3 years. 89 points
Seavey
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1998
$64.00
14.1%
No filminess to speak of, the core more black than violet, in the wide rims the ruby certainly has switched gears into brick red, that said, still full and well-hued. The nose does not seem oaky at all, however, there’s no dearth of meat, grill smoke, cedar and molasses which may be aged expression of wood, floral with more than adequate currant, cherry, plum fruit, the big smokiness lifts the whole through the dissolve. Full-bodied, not possessed of the weight and density of better vintages yet no worse off for harmony and even-keeled presentation. Slight drying out of the cherry, currant fruit, this arguably allows the orange citrus, dried flowers and minerally earth to reach higher. Touch woodier here, still possessed of outsized smokiness and cedar. Leather and grassiness rises nearing finish. No shortness at the end. Like relaxing on the front porch in the shade. 90 points
Reuscher-Haart, Weingut
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Piesporter
Goldtröpfchen
Spätlese AP #7
Riesling
1989
$24.99
7.5%
Very yellow color, as in luminescent, no filminess but there is no true shine and no lack of translucent deadening below the surface. There’s that rubber tire, hot street tar aspect to the nose yet not to the occlusion of bread dough, lemon to tangerine citrus, pineapple, guava and apricot fruit, not to mention poor dirt and earth caked stones. Full-bodied and even with the milky creaminess and custard like mouth feel on the attack, you know right off that this wine is not open for business. Not that acidic, when you think it might bite, it instead turns its cheek. Plenty tropical in the nectarine, guava, mango, pineapple fruit department as well as the pink grapefruit, mandarin orange citrus. More grassy than stony and welcome given that creamy texture. It just isn’t saying much, however, reading between the lines there may not be that much of gravity to say. 88 points
Best’s
Victoria, Australia
Great Western
Riesling
2002
$19.99
13.0%
The nose caught between a vanilla creaminess and fresher mineral water feel, rubber notes favor the former and lemon peel the latter, in the end the openly knit apricot, pear fruit settles the score for minerality and stoniness. Medium-bodied, the acidity doesn’t have laser-like brightness but steadily plugs away and quietly prods things along. Again, displays this leesy creaminess at first before a keener edged grassiness and emphasis on orange and lemon citrus sets things aright. Odd moment of toasted coconut. Noticeable element of pliable rubber, not really near diesel sharpness. Steady as she goes apricot, peach, melon fruit, no great splash nor short. Stays firm and broad through the finish, could deal with heavier food. (Screwcap) 88 points
Whitehall Lane
Napa Valley, California
Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$65.00
14.2%
The black purple core infiltrated by crimson red, around the rims the ruby giving way to brick red but not that aged in appearance, especially given the surface shine. Creamy French vanilla ice cream, toasted coconut and caramel blossom through the nose, abates some with air time, minty too, once you factor in the satiny smooth plum, cassis, cherry scents you realize it’s expended all the energy it had, nothing left to produce cedar, leather or other accents. Full-bodied and super-plush, fresh butter, butterscotch, caramel, vanilla bean, coffee, you name it. The tannins have grit, if not direction or fluidity, and do manage to at least puncture the balloon of cherry, plum, black currant fruit juice. Hint of mixed white citrus. As in the nose, no sign of meaningful development, age betrayed solely by the sediment silt. One must hope in the chrysalis still it rests for this day an average wine it be. 87 points
Terres Dorées (Jean-Paul Brun), Domaine des
Beaujolais, France
l’Ancien Vieilles Vignes
Gamay Noir
2002
$10.99
11.0%
A lot of the purple has faded in the core in favor of brick red and dried blood hues, coloration consistent to the rims where it washes out some. Rubbery and merde-like notes in the nose suggest a somewhat reductive state, all the animals in the barn for this hoedown, palpable white grapefruit zest, if you can concentrate enough there’s a sweet candied character to the red cherry, raspberry scents, all together stays in your nostrils for some time. Medium-bodied, fresher in the mouth with more prominent cherry, raspberry, strawberry fruit during the attack. This slowly segues to leather, meadow grasses, mixed white citrus, field stones and a good dose of farm funk. A smokier, more roasted quality permeates the fruit as it finishes, At the same time, the stoniness elevates as well. Tangy, if not at times ornery, wine that is not near its end, naturally fibrous closure or not. (Synthetic Cork: Nomacorc) 87 points
Sent to Their Grave in May 2008
Undhof (Erich Salomon), Weingut
Kremstal, Austria
Library Reserve
Riesling
1991
$29.99
12.0%
Orange-golden color, not quite amber just obviously aged, translucent but in no way filmy. Doughy, bready nose with rubber accents, mint and anise, the lemon to pink grapefruit adds needed bite to the base of peach, pear, apple fruit. Full-bodied, extremely broad shoulders, pile drives into you and doesn’t quite care what impression it makes at first. Doughy, honeyed, lemony, kind of hot at first, mixes in white and pink grapefruit. Pine, thyme, mint and white pepper appear as well, gets grassier as progresses. The acidity is a plugger, “I think I can,” “I think I can.” Highly credible activity through the end, may not have it all in spades but breaks a sweat for you with what it’s got. 87 points
Revello, Azienda Agricola Fratelli
Piedmont, Italy
Barolo
Nebbiolo
2003
$36.99
14.5%
Minimal purple in the core, much more crimson to garnet, washed out orange to red brick hued rims, overall pure and clean surface. Liqueur scented nose of candied cherry, strawberry fruit alongside licorice, mint oil, orange marmalade, dollop of leather and cowhide, more butterscotch, caramel, toffee and fresh butter, apparently modern in style and plays in the higher register. Medium-bodied, both gritty and creamy at once with a certain showy roughness to the tannin. Then thickly layered blackberry, raspberry, cherry fruit with noticeable sweetness. Has leather, tar and grass but nothing that really persists. Finishes with broadening vanilla cream, butterscotch and caramel oak flavors. Plays it by the numbers. 86 points
Dauvissat, Domaine Vincent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Le Forest
Chardonnay
2002
$32.99
13.0%
Deepening old gold color, some glow but semi-worn in an attractive way, while concentrated in the core, the rims are semi-dilute. Cinnamon, baked pie crust, honey, lemon drop make for a relaxed, placid nose which reclines more than moves, poached peach, apricot, pear fruit without turning too cloying, fairly fat and sinks in decently. Medium-bodied, clings to the tongue, there’s evidence of acidic filminess, really flattens out across the tongue. Serves up fresh butter, pie crust, honey, molasses, lemon reduction as well as sluggish peach, pear, apricot, nectarine fruit. Lacks verve and zing but does clamp down eventually. Floral at turns. Not bad wine, just not what it should be. 86 points
Jasmin, Domaine Patrick
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Syrah
1999
$39.99
12.5%
Straightforward violet core enlivened by a reddish influence, this further out favors scarlet over ruby along the rims, neither remarkably clear nor filmy. The nose made from a tightly woven fabric, neither too dense nor ungiving yet there’s one chorus of floral dew, stones, hay, orange peel, vanilla bean and cherry, red currant fruit, more graceful in its lift than penetrating. Medium-bodied, it’s soft touch doesn’t mean it peters out, more so it requires quiet concentration on it. Lemon to orange citrus and a big bushel of flowers lead the way and there’s a sparkle to the minerality as well. The acidity appears more apt to engage but nod devoid of tannin. The cherry, raspberry fruit ripe without sweetness, perhaps impaired by a suggestion of tomato skin. Minute traces of game or iodine. Leaves your mouth full of perfume as it ends. 89 points
Garretson Wine Company
Regional Blend, California
Central Coast
The Reliquary
Blend
2001
$75.00
15.2%
Completely opaque black purple core, the rims are fat and as much crimson red as ruby, not betraying much aging. Rich, fluffy nose of plum, cherry, boysenberry fruit, softened further by vanilla cream and caramel tones, a touch of mint and floral water, not especially advanced or possessed of tertiary scents. In the mouth the caramel, toffee, butterscotch and vanilla ice cream are first to the mic, followed on by orange spice, mint and clove. No real alcoholic burn, conversely no tannin nor acidity either. So, it basically gets by on weight and momentum. Hard to reach the bottom of the liqueur-tinged raspberry, cherry, strawberry fruit. Eternally young wine. 67% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 8% Mourvèdre, 5% Viognier. 60% Paso Robles, 40% Santa Ynez Valley. 88 points
Spinetta, Azienda Agricola La
Piedmont, Italy
Monferrato Rosso
Pin
Blend
1998
$41.99
14.0%
The core is much more black than purple, this becomes more evident at the rims where there’s dusty crimson to brick red coloration with nary a hint of any brighter hue, clear enough given the flatness overall. The nose built on tar, muddy earth, camphor, old milk chocolate bars, the potpourri bowl at grandma’s house and jammy blackberry, cherry scents, can’t decide if it’s slow to move or immobile, zero lift or lighter perfume. Full-bodied at first with a precipitous drop off past the mid-palate. The tannins are like chunky sawdust cast about your mouth, clumping up here and there. The weight of the currant, cherry, blackberry fruit impresses more than the juiciness, more hard candy in nature. Something in here seems oaky but it comes across more as woody. The floral side a touch greater with the tar, earth and merde falling back commensurately. Lemon peel and grass echo through the finish. Difficult to judge whether this was caught at a bad time, is past its peak or just one of those bottles. Unexpectedly mediocre. 50% Nebbiolo, 30% Barbera, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. 85 points
Porters
Martinborough, New Zealand
Pinot Noir
2002
$56.99
13.5%
Ruby-garnet in hue with a mild cloudiness which prevents transparency, coloration stays consistent through to outermost rims which more of an orange tint shows. Cola bean, mint, orange to white grapefruit give the nose a certain raciness while there’s also a perky tartness to the raspberry, red cherry fruit scents, thick perfume rises in the nostrils. Medium-bodied with good downwards pressure that keeps it consistent from start to finish without seeming intent on doing so. The tannins still packing a mean punch and able to surface a leathery, almost gamey quality. This plays well off of the cola, mixed citrus and grasses. Lightly candied nature to the strawberry, raspberry, cherry fruit helps it keep balance too. Almost creates a light fizziness behind it at the end. 90 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Grenache
2003
$35.00
15.5%
Borderline grimy black purple core, muddied by red earthen mud, the brick red rims remain deeply hued if devoid of lively shine. Sweet baking spices and orange marmalade and a vanilla/caramel swirl make the nose user friendly, no alcoholic heat, maybe some fast rising menthol rub, the raspberry, strawberry, red cherry fruit has the consistency of jam in your nostrils if not the sugariness. In the mouth it is round, if somewhat hollow, just when you expect the weight to press down on your tongue it evaporates. Tannin and acidity weak enough to allow the vanilla, caramel, butterscotch creaminess to outweigh any citrus or herbal kick. The cherry, raspberry fruit has a liqueur-like consistency here which does bring out a little alcoholic heat and roughness. Short finish, doesn’t drop off the map but close. Serviceable. 87 points
Failla
Napa Valley, California
Phoenix Ranch
Syrah
2003
$38.00
14.5%
Impenetrable black-purple core, the violet extends deep into the rims, darkening the otherwise red-ruby hue, only a suggestion of aging. While there’s hot caramel and coffee bean in the nose, the oak overcome in large part by the crisp white grapefruit zest, damp minerally earth and grass, light gaminess tugs some sourness out of the cherry, raspberry fruit scents. Medium-bodied, the tannins not so noticeable but the acidity is one wicked beast and pretty much conditions all the flavors one might sense. Naturally, this favors the white grapefruit and lemon citrus which are dominate throughout. The same can be said for leather, tar, dried beef, salt and mountain scrub accents. The oak here still evokes coffee flavors but more so ends up expressing a generalized smokiness. Despite the puckering sour bite, there’s yet full depth and length in the raspberry, red currant, cherry fruit and little sign of abating. Arguably, one could wait longer still but why? 92 points
Limelight
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
Syrah
1998
$24.99
14.0%
Complete clarity throughout, the core as mixed red-black as purple, the rims more bright crimson, remains well-hued. The nose is first dominated by vanilla/caramel swirl, eucalyptus and grill smoke, slightly earthier than gamey, despite the oak presence and ripeness of the cherry, currant fruit this is not a simple dullard of a nose, more marked by curious absence of tertiary scents only hinted at. Full-bodied, more developed here in the mouth, cedar, eucalyptus, orange peel matched by dried beef, leather and mineral chunk elements. The tannins are adequate, the tip of the cap goes to the acidity which kicks strongly start to finish. Ginger spice, pink grapefruit, lemon citrus, cedar, not an untamed savage yet not overly mannered either. The blackberry, red currant, cherry fruit decides on a level and steadily maintains it to the end. Better than many of its more expensive brethren. 90 points
Lagier Meredith
Napa Valley, California
Mount Veeder
Syrah
1998
$50.00
14.3%
Blackish purple core, on the whole clear yet there is a visible very fine sediment throughout, the rims mainly crimson red with an echo of ruby alongside orange stripes. Slightly dusty nose, furnishes dried beef, dried flowers, dried orange peels, cocoa powder, even the plum, cherry, black currant scents reticent, not unpleasing just could take part more in the conversation. Medium-bodied, the acidity gives the red currant, plum, blackberry fruit a twist as well as sour bite. Slight vanilla cream, again occluded by cocoa powder. Notes of bell pepper, mountain grasses contribute to its erect bearing. Nuances of mint and eucalyptus pretty it up some, flowers the same albeit to a lesser extent. The sweetness in the fruit grows with more air time. Cedar, spice infused kick helps it end with an exclamation point. 90 points
Campion
Monterey County, California
Santa Lucia Highlands
Pinot Noir
2001
$25.99
14.0%
Consistent garnet to ruby color, easy clarity with an orange tinge around the rims. The nose possesses damp earth, cola, orange peel, flower petals and coffee bean, lowgrade raspberry, red cherry scents cruise steadily throughout. Full-bodied, extremely well-structured with both rugged tannin and acidity but no sternness. Leans decisively towards the earthy side of things, some grassy notes but serves up stones, orange peel, rose petals too with higher levels of cola and poor earth. Minimal oak toast, what is there actually adds some spring to its step. While not incredibly complex, there’s an admirable purity to it. Never feels sluggish but takes its time progressing through the palate. Some spiciness and even more cola through the finish. Entering its best phase. Grapes sourced from Sarmento Vineyard. 90 points
Ogier, Domaine Michel
Rhône, France
Côte-Rôtie
Syrah
1999
$59.99
12.5%
Cloudiness deepens the purple core close to blackness, flat crimson to brick red rims without noticeable loss of hue. White grapefruit and field flowers spring forth first in the nose, then strips of salted dried beef, barnyard floor, merde, saline, hay, black smoke, aggressive without being offensive, nevertheless the tart currant, blackberry fruit barely cushions the blow. Starts out almost light-bodied but puts on a good deal of weight as it opens. Razor sharp acidity focuses the minerality, densely packed earthiness, olive pits and white grapefruit zest. Still displays a touch of toastiness as well. Funky game notes more prevalent than beef blood. Elevated grassiness plays towards leaner profile. Pleasing bottom in the currant, cherry, blackberry flavors, the fruit knit fully into overall fabric. Lots of smoky perfume left in the mouth at the finish. Drinking exquisitely with moderate room for improvement. 92 points
Markham
Napa Valley, California
Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon
1997
$65.00
14.5%
Noticeably clear, no blemishes nor hint of sediment, strong reddening around the rims, crimson to orange brick. The nose is stuffed with cedar, salted beef, barnyard funk and leather, the vanilla cream, licorice, caramel accents build with time, slight attenuation in the cherry, blackberry fruit scents, more puffy than a solid presence. Medium-bodied, here the dried out, shrunken feel more apparent, dusty character to the cherry, currant, blackberry flavors, minimal juice and shortened. Hard to blame the tannins here, present yet reduced to grit. Grill smoke, chocolate, vanilla, caramel elevated too, along with some pine, eucalyptus, lemon/orange citrus. Gains some weight with air time. Appears unusually advanced. 87 points
Colombo, Jean-Luc
Rhône, France
Condrieu
Amour de Dieu
Viognier
1999
$29.99
13.5%
Has taken on an amber bronze color, clear but not so shiny, holds admirably through the rims, diminishing to a general yellow hue. The nose built on cinnamon and ginger like baking spices, tangerine citrus, honey glazed bread and flower water, perfect consistency in the apricot, peach, pear scents without any hogging of the spotlight. Full-bodied and on the plump side even, sinks into your lap like it wants a bedtime story. Activated some by that cinnamon, ginger, clove spice as well as the orange to tangerine citrus. Lack of acidity contributes to flatness, allows freedom to the honey, caramel elements, which in turn thickens the apricot, peach, pear, melon fruit and removes freshness. Pours itself through finish as much as flows. Age has diminished florality. On the whole, good but maybe not for the desired reasons. 375 ml bottle. 88 points
Turley
San Luis Obispo County, California
Paso Robles
Ueberroth Vineyard
Zinfandel
2004
$48.00
16.3%
Deep purple core, while completely opaque, no hesitancy in shifting gears to red-ruby along the rims, good warmth and richness. Presents an outdoorsy feel in the nose of wildflowers, grasses, eucalyptus and stone chunks, broadens into orange peel, milk chocolate and cherry, red currant, raspberry scents, great lift with a minimum of oak and no evident alcoholic fumes. Full-bodied, juicy and lively, positively bounces around your mouth. Has some tannin but, more importantly, possesses sufficient acidity to highlight the orange to lemon citrus, light meadow grassiness and then focus the cherry, cranberry, black raspberry fruit. Moderate chocolate and vanilla accents but accents they are, overshadowed by that same stony earth and eucalyptus breeze thing. Muscularly compact finish, flexes before the final release. 92 points
Ridge
Dry Creek Valley, California
Lytton Estate
Syrah
1998
$27.50
13.9%
Reddish tinged purple core, the ruby rims changed to brick red with the start of some orange hues, clear at first, needs a decant to keep the chunks at the bottom of the bottle. There’s some coffee rinds and toast at first in the nose before overcome by grilled meats, leather and barn floor accents, needs to warm before you get the full effect of the flowers, eucalyptus and cherry, red currant fruit scents. Medium-bodied, the powdery tannic residue quite evident, some might consider this to be drying out some. But the lost weight also gives cleaner lines to the pine, eucalyptus, orange to lemon citrus and wildflowers. Which, in turn, alleviates some of the monotony in the leather, game, merde elements. Life yet left in the cherry, currant, plum fruit but little juiciness. Moderate coffee, dill, cedar notes. Circumspect wine, no false promises made. 90% Syrah, 10% Viognier. 89 points
Brunel, Domaine André
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Les Cailloux
Blend
1999
$34.99
14.0%
Sort of grimy murkiness to it, a sign of low filtration as anything else, the purple core has a reddish tint to it while the rims are pure brick red with a slight nod towards orange, opaque throughout. Sadly, even after some aeration, the alcoholic heat unsettles the nose, otherwise you’d have a pure stream of soft milk chocolate, raspberry liqueur, blackberry and currant fruit, with additional notes of horsehide, wildflowers and dried lemon peels. Full-bodied and thick in the mouth, as if just starting to uncongeal and regain liquid form. Toastier here, yet, at the same time, displays more resonant leather, cedar, earth, wildflower elements, the latter aided by finely gritty tannins. The sweet lemon drop accents almost suggest lime. Dried fruit concentration settling into the cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit, still more golden raisin and fig than prune. Highly credible length through the finish. Could use a few more years, not much more. 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah, other. 90 points
Rideau Vineyard
Regional Blend, California
California
In-Circle Cellar Club
Petite Sirah
2005
$52.00
15.7%
Full purple color without necessarily entailing blackness, quite youthful red ruby to magenta hued rims, excellent depth along with a fine surface sheen. Very fresh and juicy nose of just squeezed raspberry, strawberry, blackberry fruit, light and soft whipped cream note, overall freshness brings out more floral accents, lemon juice, hard to sneak anything past all that fruit. Full-bodied, soft and juicy just the same in the mouth, a veritable cavalcade of raspberry, strawberry, blueberry fruit with nary a sign of leatheriness nor earthiness, more likely golden raisin. Flowers, lemon to white grapefruit citrus there, maybe granite like stoniness. No paucity of vanillin cream and softer oaky notes. Honestly, little here says “Hi, I’m a Petite Sirah” but it tastes real, umm, tasty. 89 points
Copain
Monterey County, California
Santa Lucia Highlands
Garys’ Vineyard
Syrah
2004
$49.99
14.8%
Fully opaque black-purple core, the thin rims of ruby-magenta bespeak of no lack of extraction. While the nose is oaky as hell, it’s not poofy vanilla cream and butterscotch it’s more subtle molasses, grill smoke, meat glaze notes, the beef like nuances more fleshy than iodine and skin, presents flowers in a by-the-book manner, adornment to the blackberry, raspberry scents more than standalone, very pungent generally speaking. Medium-bodied and a touch more svelte than expected based on the nose, strong emphasis on super-ripe blackberry, boysenberry, blueberry fruit and then that mesquite smoke, molasses, barbeque elements. The lemon to white grapefruit citrus still there, if lower, greater degree of that thick floral musk. The acidity is decent, not displaying any tannic underpinning. Have to say, after spending some time with it, kind of simple and plain. 87 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Petite Sirah
2003
$35.00
14.6%
“Black light” type saturation in the dark purple core, bounces light off the surface decently, thin but densely set ruby rims, no sign of any sediment anywhere. There’s a reductive quality to the nose that is slow to resolve, peanut butter, merde, wet fallen leaves, then a suggestion of flowers before dense, blockish currant, plum, cherry scents ensue. In the mouth it’s full-bodied, feeling as if made of sturdy steel mesh than cement blocks. The oak influence obvious from the start with vanilla fudge, caramel, butterscotch flavors in effect. Here there’s additional white grapefruit zest and the floral dimension elevated. There’s a little more fluidity to the plum, black cherry, blackberry fruit if, in the end, remains more blockish than anything. In the end, maybe possesses more agreeable acidity than tannin, nevertheless mostly structured by sheer density. Hard to see improvement, easy to see staying on current plateau. 87 points
McPrice Myers Wine Company
Santa Ynez Valley, California
Larner Vineyard
Syrah
2002
$26.99
14.9%
Neither that clean nor filmy, there’s just a hint of gauziness in the purple core, the wide ruby rims show as much pink as red, either way fully saturated. The nose is on the reticent side, more grill and kindling smoke and potpourri than currant, cherry fruit, if there’s meat notes they tend to be overshadowed by oak, a few bursts of pleasing white grapefruit to lemon, nothing here long lived. Full-bodied, smoother and richer than the nose might indicate. It’s the oak toast, coffee bean, mocha crisp, caramel which comprises the majority of the attack. The flower and citrus dimensions drop a notch here. Neither the acidity nor tannin jumps out at you. In a tactile sense the raspberry, cherry, blackberry fruit is jammy but without a lot of sweetness. Retains its energy and power through the finish, if unchanneled for the most part. 88 points
Sent to Their Grave in April 2008
Pax Wine Cellars
Knights Valley, California
Obsidian
Syrah
2003
$45.00
15.1%
Block-like opacity to the purple core, like it’s made of solid rubber, razor thin rims as violet as ruby. Just cooked maple glazed bacon, leather, eucalyptus, cedar, grill smoke and dried wildflowers make for a broadly arrayed nose, the currant, cherry, blackberry scents thick enough to turn to gel. Medium-bodied with a stiffened tensility which creates via inertness a greater sense of density. The tannins soak in slowly enough to allow the sour black currant, blackberry, pomegranate fruit to have a momentary crest. More oak toast, cocoa powder notes here, with restraint. Nice beam of white grapefruit down the middle, contributes to dried beef strip, mineral chunk and green hay elements. Possesses pleasingly unforced length and lasting inner mouth perfume. 90 points
Schoffit, Domaine
Alsace, France
Rangen de Thann Clos Saint-Théobald
Sélection de Grains Nobles Tokay Pinot Gris
Pinot Gris
1995
$89.99
13.5%
Advanced orange-yellow color, appears to stop a millimeter below the surface, in spite of the glowing hue, overall comes off visually dull. Baked pie notes of apricot, peach, nectarine fruit, thickly honeyed with good contrasting bite in the lemon citrus, add in sweet tea leaf and mint, thick lift in your nostrils. In the mouth it is unctuously full-bodied, led by a vibrant tangerine, tangelo, lemon zest, also displays wicked strong acidity for its category. Manages an undercurrent of stoniness and cut grass, a good display of terroir for a dessert wine. Serious bite in the pineapple, nectarine, apricot, papaya fruit, tropical but in no way soft nor liquidy. Leaves your pleasure nodes more scrubbed than massaged. 500 ml bottle. 92 points
Hobbs
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Limited Edition
Shiraz
1998
$75.99
13.5%
Faint film to the ruby-magenta to violet colored core, the rims remain adolescent in appearance with more bright pinkish magenta. Fat, creamy coconut, vanilla custard, mint infused nose, thick eucalyptus too, its in your face style produces round and penetrating plum, black cherry, boysenberry scents, agreeably tightens up with air time, already here delivers on its reputation. Medium-bodied, highly tangy and borderline biting, here in the mouth the acidity really frames the currant, cherry, blackberry fruit and slims it into fighting shape. Mixes in tar, leather, lemon peel, sweet grill smoke. Mildly herbaceous but no real edge to it. In a weird way, it tries very hard to be “serious” when it should probably just play up the “spoof.” 88 points
Hahn, JJ
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
1914 Block
Shiraz
1998
$49.99
14.5%
Cloudy crimson-purple core, violet to red magenta rims, not evincing much age. Rugged, invasive nose of sour cherry, currant, blackberry fruit, too angular to settle in despite the honey, sweet mesquite chips, caramel components, smoky but still juicy cherry, blackberry scents, freshly wet leather, on the whole never coheres but kudos for the quantity of shit it throws against the wall. Medium-bodied, spicy and lively, the acidity runs somewhat amok and creates a jagged mouth entry, only partially softened by the caramel, mesquite, honey notes. The earthiness and leatheriness yanks it back to rawness again. Angular currant, cranberry, blackberry, pomegranate fruit. While there’s a lot here too, my goodness, calm down. 87 points
Classic McLaren
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
La Testa
Shiraz
1997
$80.00
14.0%
Serious murk and filminess deepens the black-purple core, somehow lightens to a red-orange brick shade around the rims, still on the dark side of things. Mint, eucalyptus, potpourri give the nose an initially breezy quality, followed on by attractive dried beef, leather, salt lick, barbecue mesquite smoke nuances, takes time to kick in but no dearth of black currant, cherry, blackberry fruit scents, the earthiness glues it to your nostrils. Medium-bodied, has the energy and verve to splash into your mouth like it owns it. More mesquite smoke, lemon citrus, dried flowers, never too oaky and the acidity a consistently refreshing presence. Compact, yet not succinct, currant, blackberry, black cherry fruit, sinewy throughout. Shows enough beef, leather game notes to deepen ability to shift on you. Very nice, hits all the “food groups.” 92 points
Dominus
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
1991
$120.00
13.5%
Young ruby-violet colored core, barely moving into a red-orange tint at the rims, hardly any sediment showing. Cedar, saddlesoap, leather and tobacco leaf lead the way in the nose, gently sets the table for bolder bell pepper, pine cone, orange peel elements, retains a pleasing patina of vanilla/chocolate creaminess, mild roasted quality to the red currant, cherry, blackberry scents, refuses to end. Medium-bodied, toothy tannins clamp and funnel direction without ever desiring attention. So collected and integrated that, even at this age, continues to shame the competition. While on the dry side, there’s ample boldness and concentration in the currant, black cherry, plum fruit, lasts completely to the end. Offers similar notes of tobacco, tea leaf, leather and such as in the nose but it’s almost tactful to the point of no one aspect sticking out among the rest. Unspecified percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot. 93 points
Grillet, Château
Rhône, France
Château Grillet
Viognier
2000
$83.99
13.5%
White to light yellow hay color, fairly hueless and dull, visual appearance not its strength. A little reduced at first in the nose, opens to lemon peel, blanched almonds, quiet green apple, pear, peach fruit, muted floral lift as well, solid minerally underpinning though. Full-bodied, great grip even though it releases equally well. More nuttiness here, florality softer in contrast, the stone and mineral shard elements bigger in turn. Consistent presentation of the lemon, orange to white grapefruit citrus, dry and neither tangy nor sweet. Even-keeled pear, red apple, apricot to almost cherry fruit. The acidity is elevated sufficiently to keep the stoniness in the lead through the finish. Does gain richness as it warms but seems not really ready for opening night. 88 points
Tensley
Santa Barbara County, California
Purisima Mountain Vineyard
Syrah
1999
$40.00
13.5%
The purple core sufficiently dark to achieve opacity, the rims youthful with the ruby just starting to darken into crimson shades, you don’t see the sediment film until the glass is empty. The nose betrays little evidence of advancement, filled with raspberry, blackberry, blueberry fruit scents, moments of lemon juice and flower petals, only a dash of cocoa powder, no evident oak, even less beef blood or iodine. Full-bodied with heaviness, strides gracefully forward like new dress shoes on a soft rug. Here too the fruit of blackberry, black cherry, raspberry squarely centerstage. The oak adds some creaminess and vanilla flavoring, however, the acidity keeps this in line. Mixed white citrus and a lower hint of flowers there, some stoniness yet, in the end, tastes unevolved. 89 points
Turley
Napa Valley, California
Hayne Vineyard
Petite Sirah
2001
$75.00
15.2%
While fully opaque dark purple through the core, the brightness of the red-magenta rims displays the underlying clarity, sleek surface shine as well. Poached plum, cherry fruit and dark chocolate icing make up most of the nose, the eucalyptus and dried flower notes too slight to make an impact, sun-tanned leather fares slightly better. Full-bodied, tangy entry, gets by mainly on sharp baking spices, oak toast, chocolate, mint and orange peel. Not noticeably tannic nor acidic, appears held together by its mass and density. The plum, cassis, blackberry fruit thick and gooey in texture yet not overly sweet. There is a semi-dry residue left behind through the finish but doesn’t strike you as a product of tannin. Fruit lasts very well. 89 points
Martinelli
Russian River Valley, California
Jackass Vineyard
Zinfandel
1998
$50.00
16.0%
Very filmy throughout but not much sign of sediment per se (stood up for three days), opaque black-purple contrasts with the rims washed out red brick with more vivid orange tint. The nose seems somewhat flattened out, menthol, tomato skin, pine sap, cough syrup, orange glaze and vanilla custard, not particularly oaky, the blackberry, raspberry, boysenberry fruit sugary without achieving dried fruit concentration. Full-bodied, bien sur, here in the mouth the caramel, butterscotch, vanilla pudding, milk chocolate oak flavors first and foremost. Orange sherbet, eucalyptus and mint next up, not to ignore the jammy blackberry, black cherry, blueberry fruit. Little alcoholic burn but does go to your head. Touch of leather or dried beef blood yet nothing here suggests tertiary nuances of a wine almost a decade old. Good for chugging. Especially for the buzz. 89 points
Künstler, Weingut Franz
Rheingau, Germany
Hochheimer
Hölle
QbA Trocken Erstes Gewächs AP #13
Riesling
2005
$34.99
13.5%
Solidly arrayed green-gold color, glassy with layers of translucency, some hue loss at the outer rims. The nose is of mint leaf and powdered stone, the orange to lemon citrus juicy without seeming sweet, the same for the peach, apricot, pear, melon scents, completely ripened without losing clear contour. Full-bodied with endless extract, for its density hovers in the mouth, barely leaves a footprint. Here the peach, apricot, cantaloupe, papaya flavors more engagingly fruity. Pink grapefruit to tangerine citrus has a softness to it, aided by a curious patina of vanilla. The stone, salt and mineral elements there but cloaked by youthful exuberance. The acidity seems somewhat slight and the dryness only truly evident through the finish. It’s one big boy that may never slim down more than its broad skeleton allows. Tempts you to gulp now and let others worry about the future. 90 points
Ridge
Napa Valley, California
York Creek Vineyard Paddock Vines
Petite Sirah
1998
$22.00
12.9%
Just enough blackness through the purple core to combine with the sediment present for opacity to rule until the mostly red brick rims with minor tinge of ruby. Herbaceous nose with a slight touch of peanut shells, leather and dried beef help stabilize things, the cherry, currant fruit scents dried up and shrunken some, throws big punches with poor footwork. Medium-bodied, the sediment matches up with the very dry and powdery tannins, usually when you take a sip of wine it’s in liquid form. While the dried fruit character never fully lost, the cherry, currant, plum fruit not shot. Pine sap and odd bell pepper notes give it an outdoorsy feel, wood kindling smoke, beef blood, horse hide and dusty earth keep it up. Wasn’t great in its youth but at least now has earned crotchety old man status. 91% Petite Sirah, 9% Zinfandel. 87 points
Dominus
Napa Valley, California
Napanook Proprietary Red Wine
Blend
1997
$39.99
14.1%
As much burnt red as purple in the core, widens into vivid crimson and then dark orange rims. A little funk in the nose at first before thick slabs of cherry, currant, blackberry fruit and a forest breeze, shows a floral touch as well, eucalyptus and menthol, congeals as much as settles in, not clumsy per se but may step on your toes. Medium-bodied, again, once the sulfur-like notes blow off it’s a steady flow of cocoa powder, orange extract, menthol and buoyant raspberry, cherry, blackberry fruit. That said, stays on the dry side due to the active tannins. Cedar, saddle soap, tree bark, grass, mineral shards, does gain credibility as it opens and grows into itself. Wafts upwards without easy dissolve, still more evocative of California than Bordeaux. 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc, 17% Merlot. Dominus second label. 88 points
Ampeau et Fils, Robert
Burgundy, France
Volnay
Santenots
Pinot Noir
1993
$59.99
13.0%
Fully transparent and clear, faded purple core gives way to brown-yellow slash red-orange rims, good surface shine. Sulfury nose at first, salt and minerals then tart raspberry, red cherry fruit, very haphazard presentation overall, leather, matted grass, menthol, like the proverbial absent-minded professor, you just take it at face value in the moment. Medium to full-bodied, not heavy at first but sinks in like wet cement. Highly herbaceous, followed on by cracked stone, earth, tar and sour lemons. The acidity more periodically crests than flows steadily. No paucity of bite in the raspberry, cranberry, watermelon, red cherry fruit, the white grapefruit and lemon citrus supports this fully. Likes to tank you more than massage you, in the end this might be the right choice. 88 points
Deléger, Domaine Georges
Burgundy, France
Chevalier-Montrachet
Chardonnay
1999
14.0%
Very rich amber gold color yet at the same time crystal clear, big fade in hue towards the rims. Strong caramel and oak toast in the nose, tangerine zest as well as smoky wet stones, some mint adorns the pear, peach, apricot fruit, starts slowly but builds power nicely. Medium-bodied, on the soft side but the acidity is adequate to the task of revving it through the mid-palate. Real toasty but not vainly so, fits into the fabric. Nice mineral water, washed stone, herb notes for interplay with the thicker caramel and vanilla cream shades. Gentle-spirited peach, pear, apricot fruit given lift by smokiness through the back half. A gritty residue left behind keeps your mind focused on it. Clicking more than clacking, in a good place right now. 89 points
Lafon-Rochet, Château
Bordeaux, France
Saint-Estèphe
La Chapelle de Lafon-Rochet
Blend
1995
$24.99
12.5%
Crystal clear crimson-red to purple core, the rims brighten appreciably to scarlet and burnt orange hues. By the script nose of cedar, saddle leather, herbs, soap, driftwood with a spritz of orange citrus, the cherry, red currant, raspberry scents perfunctory. Medium-bodied, dry and remains tannic but not in the way that you’d think it is going to one day resolve, here to stay. So damn dry throughout, gnaws at the bones of the cherry, currant, raspberry fruit. Again presents a short menu of lemon and orange citrus, menthol, rosemary, cedar, not so earthy nor leathery here. All in all, though, it’s a steady cruise for a somewhat tough-nosed aged claret. Bring out your beef! 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc, 5% Merlot. Second label of Château Lafon-Rochet. 87 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Zinfandel
2003
$42.00
16.2%
Noticeable flat crimson influence through the maturing purple core, watery brick red rims barely show any life. The nose offers mainly coconut custard, vanilla fudge and raspberry, cherry juice, even the eucalyptus and orange citrus seems diminutive in comparison, a late brush of grassiness helps it eke out a few more seconds of presence. Medium-bodied, attacks with a sour bite if not outright bitter. Not particularly tannic, more linearity provided by acidity. The raspberry, cherry, strawberry fruit in the forefront here, you just about wish there was deeper oak creaminess to add body and act as a buffer against the bitterness. The elements of white grapefruit to orange citrus and stone and grass packed earth allow a center to coalesce and add breadth to an otherwise delimited experience. As said, the cocoa and toasted bread flavors barely stretch out while with each sip a dry tackiness builds on your tongue. Somewhat of a chore to drink. 85 points
Ridge
Santa Cruz Mountains, California
Jimsomare Ranch
Cabernet Sauvignon
1995
$27.50
12.9%
Deep black purple core of full opacity, sleek surface notwithstanding, the very thin rims as much ruby as brick red. Cedar and menthol play a huge role in the nose, wildflowers and mountain scrub able foot servants, never quite delivers on the leather and earth tip, the cherry, currant fruit blunt yet satisfying, on the whole it’s a strong presence of few words. In the mouth it’s full-bodied and spicy through the attack, draws notice for the acidity as much as for the tannin. Savory orange blossom, tea leaf, tar, cedar and clove notes keep kicking the shins of the currant, cherry, blackberry fruit and has ’em hopping. Touch of mixed white citrus, grass and stone shards. Settles into itself very nicely and keeps its reach within its grasp, something rare these days. 90 points
Maltroye, Château de la
Burgundy, France
Chassagne-Montrachet
Grandes Ruchottes
Chardonnay
1989
13.0%
Full golden color, flattens some below the surface contributing to the dull rims. Smoky, almost ashen nose, you just about sneeze from the stone dust and dried lemon peels, the pear, apple, peach fruit cruises through your nostrils at a high altitude, have to squint to see it. Medium-bodied, dry and tacky mouth texture, this highlights the cinnamon and clove spice. Some speed derived from the that lemon/lime citrus and stoniness. Sufficient acidity to stir up the pear, peach, apricot into a congo line. Develops a floral side as it warms which helps it fill out. In no way oxidized and evinces some aging, however, strides erectly and evenly with purpose. 89 points
Huet, G.
Loire, France
Vouvray
Le Clos du Bourg
Demi-Sec
Chenin Blanc
1957
11.5%
Very deep amber base yet also filled with brighter green flecks, becomes more faded yellow around the rims. Salty, wooly nose that changes at a slow rhythm, at turns offering light brushes of honey, tilled grassy earth, tar, there’s a vague poached quality to the apricot, nectarine, peach, pineapple scents, overall pared back from a novel to a focused short story. Medium-bodied, still a puncher, wants to knock you out, not win by decision. Petrol, tar smoke with earthiness from the attack to the finish. Any initial sweetness mostly subsumed into more sour pineapple, nectarine, apricot, persimmon fruit. The underlying grassiness rolled up into the whole, fits in place next to the anise, rosemary, sage notes. The acidity strong enough yet to pull a locomotive uphill. Wooly, semi-scratchy texture as it ends, however, little here suggests its age. 92 points
Raveneau, Domaine François
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Blanchot
Chardonnay
2000
$108.99
13.0%
Clear white-brown straw in color with a sparkling surface, not much hue loss around the rims as what was there to lose? Very floral and light of touch nose, swirls of anise, mint, dried honey, the evanescent pear, peach, apricot scents give way without a fuss to white pebbles and chalk, understated expression throughout. Medium to full-bodied, the acidity establishes a stable foundation for the flowers, sweet garden herbs and orange/tangerine citrus. Here more prominence in the stones, pebbles, just rocks dammit. The fruit not densely packed, more like wet sponge waiting to get squeezed and release the apricot, peach, pear flavors, hangs around while maintaining a certain transparency. Has hit a very long plateau of drinkability. With its sinewy grip not quite imperious but close. 91 points
Ramonet, Domaine
Burgundy, France
Chassagne-Montrachet
Les Ruchottes
Chardonnay
2000
$76.99
13.5%
Yellow-amber gold mélange of hues, fades some towards the rims, surface very reflective yet it shows its age. The nose is all overblown caramel, toffee, butterscotch, one sniff and you’ll be smelling oak for days, maybe if you’re lucky you may discern some lemon juice, peach and pear skin, not much else available. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied and by all appearances vastly oxidized, flush with those caramel, toffee, butterscotch flavors, comes across as all but completely flat. Some lemon to lime citrus as well as floral water yet you’d have to be able to jump further than The Incredible Hulk to get past the barricade of oak. Reduced peach, apricot, pear fruit has a moment to shine before, err, more oak. Not good. 84 points
Dujac, Domaine
Burgundy, France
Gevrey-Chambertin
Aux Combottes
Pinot Noir
2000
$89.99
13.0%
Light violet touches to the core yet it remains mainly garnet red to orange in hue throughout, bright sparkle catches your eye. Sufficient smokiness in the nose to energize the cherry, raspberry fruit, more earthiness than oakiness, smattering of meadow flowers, grasses and dried lemons, again, the oak toast is minimal and only comes out seconds before it dissolves. Medium-bodied, while the acidity is somewhat dull, here the oak spice supplants that role and plays a big part in providing energy. Merde, drying mud and wet straw give it street, err, vineyard, cred. Dried oranges, lemons imbue it with forward momentum. Lots of roundness, but not necessarily flesh, in the raspberry, strawberry, red cherry fruit. Shakes off even more weight as it nears the finish line. Not balanced but not teetering. 88 points
Droin, Jean-Paul
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Vaillons
Chardonnay
1999
$18.99
12.5%
The golden color certainly deepening with age and taking on a a sort of solidity, holds through to the rims, not quite amber yet, still a few green flecks. The nose just about split down the middle between botrytis-like honeyed notes and smoky white stone and chalk, if there’s a winner it is the former due to the depth of the florality and mintiness as well as ripeness in the peach, apricot, yellow apple fruit scents. Medium-bodied, schoolmaster sternness in the acidity, not so much bite but lots of bark. This gives the pebbles, chalk, mineral water the edge at first and plays up some sweetish orange to pink grapefruit citrus. Then honey and caramel accents bubble up, adds both sweetness and body. Good length with a hint of bitter grilled nuts which does please. Not quite regally well-bred but still worth the initial tariff. 88 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Sonoma County, California
Cuvée Moriah
Blend
2003
$50.00
16.4%
There’s a certain dullness, not filminess, to how it sits in the glass, from the dense purple core through to the ruby rims, these still more magenta than red. Smells like it was bottled yesterday, all fresh and juicy raspberry, cherry, strawberry, apple fruit as well as garden flowers, orange blossom, the thick caramel and honey solidifies it in your nostrils. Full-bodied, fills your mouth like syrup dripping off a spoon, no big punch but consistently keeps the pace until it starts to spill over. Orange, lemon citrus, sweet spice, caramel, honey, molasses, eucalyptus, there’s a lot in there but the conductor is in the head taking a whiz. Not much by way of tannins but something here makes you think there’s acidity, left the test tubes at work. The raspberry, strawberry, pomegranate, cranberry fruit as solid during the finish as the attack. Nothing profound here but waves of uncritical pleasure has to count for something. Or it’s the 16.4%. 69% Grenache, 18% Syrah, 9% Mourvèdre, 3% Counoise, 1% Roussanne. 90 points
Sent to Their Grave in March 2008
Ravenswood
Sonoma Valley, California
Monte Rosso Vineyard
Zinfandel
1997
$34.99
15.5%
The depth of the purple has faded to admit more reddish tint, the broad rims yet in transition from brighter ruby to redder scarlet hues, immaculately neat in the glass. There’s a definite “brambly” character to the nose of meadow grasses and flowers, fallen pine needles, cedar, clove and moments of meatiness, fresh prune and golden raisin accents deepen the base of raspberry, blackberry fruit scents. Medium-bodied, while it has noticeably “shrunk” it’s all in equal proportion, more resized. Lots of fruit left, sweet too, raisin and fig there alongside the red cherry, blackberry, raspberry, persists fully to the finish line. Pine, eucalyptus breeze brings with it lemon peel, rosemary and thyme, cedar and tea leaf shades. Both the tannin and acidity aging with strength and remain capable of directing traffic. Loosely knit enough to give each component its moment to shine, a competent and fluid jazz ensemble. 92 points
Pégau, Domaine du
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cuvée Réservée
Blend
1999
$44.99
13.5%
The core remains mostly ruby-purple, however, the very wide rims formed of brick red with a bright carrot orange starting to form. Quite leathery nose with salt, olive pit, field flowers outpacing the cherry, raspberry scents, hangs pregnantly in the nostrils. Full-bodied, the acidity in part cloaked by the dusty tannins, as a result more dry than refreshing. Orange peel, cocoa powder and spice frame the attack before it unleashes green olives, merde, dried blood and floral brush. The candied cherry, strawberry, raspberry fruit might be thinning out some or this could be pinned on the tannin’s activity. Either way, the tertiary flavors easily outlast the fruit. pleasurable and just about compelling, personal taste should dictate whether to pop them now or wait a few years still for the tannin to subside more. Mainly Grenache, remainder Syrah, etc. 91 points
Latour, Maison Louis
Burgundy, France
Meursault
Goutte d’Or
Chardonnay
1999
$47.99
13.0%
The depth in the golden core seems to have whitened into a straw color with green flecks, holds decently through to the rims. There’s a floral waft through the nose, buttressed by keen lemon/lime citrus, a quiet stoniness flexes below, the pear, apple, melon scents cruise through unobtrusively. Medium-bodied, touches of powdered sugar, floral dust and dried lemons adorn the mouth entry. Even though there’s a flatness to the acidity this doesn’t appear to be the main source of the overall dryness throughout the pear, peach, apricot, nectarine fruit. The stoniness a touch inert but not absent. Its close-woven and tight from start to finish, it it had a little more give you’d get some tongue instead of just lips. 88 points
Serene, Domaine
Willamette Valley, Oregon
Evenstad Reserve
Pinot Noir
1998
$109.99
13.0%
Decent amount of cloud in it, adds a layered glow to the ruby-violet core, the deep set rims colored garnet to deep ruby and yet youthful. The nose has quieted down a good deal, simple presentation of wet grass, cherry, raspberry and almost strawberry fruit, minimal earthiness nor merde, even the lemon and garden herb scents succinct. Medium-bodied, while the tannins have subsided, the acidity funnels the red cherry, strawberry, raspberry fruit, definitely further than the fruit’s weight could have on its own. Very lemony but not grassy. There’s a stony, poor earth expression towards the end. Remains a little simple without a tight weave in the fabric. 1.5 liter bottle. 88 points
Ridge
Dry Creek Valley, California
Lytton Estate
Grenache
1998
$19.99
14.3%
Light, crystal clear violet core lightened further by red hues, the rims flush with garnet to crimson coloration. The nose blossoms fully with buttered popcorn, butterscotch oak scents, still cloaking the raspberry, blackberry scents, a touch twiggy and grassy, can’t say it presents much explicit development. Full-bodied, off artificial slash rubbery texture upon mouth entry. The powdery sweetness in the strawberry, raspberry, red cherry fruit drags with it lemon to orange peel and ginger spice shades. The oak offers fewer distinct flavors here but as a whole still a presence. Lil’ bit of earthiness and grass but nothing special. Seems to have plateaued but, by the same token, has faded as might be expected. 75% Grenache, 20% Zinfandel, 5% Petite Sirah. 85 points
Beaulieu Vineyard
Napa Valley, California
Georges de Latour Private Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon
1973
13.0%
Very light and transparent, shows all the sediment throughout the brick red core even after a decant through cheese cloth, the rims all dull red, then orange, then yellow. Cedar, raisin, prune, candied raspberry ably carry the nose, accompanied by vanilla powder, pressed flowers and licorice. Medium-bodied, displays verve and vigor for its age with excellent freshening acidity to extend both its length in general and the reach of the tart red cherry, raspberry, red currant fruit. Cedar, leather, rosemary, orange spice, grass, licorice, pine needle affably settle in, very mature without ever seeming dead. The grapefruit, orange citrus component gains speed near the end. After some time open does start to fade. Before that, though, quite the good drop and a testament to this wine’s reputation. 89 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Russian River Valley, California
Lauterbach Hill Vineyard
Syrah
2004
$55.00
15.5%
Basically opaque black-purple core, no intensity loss through the heavy red-magenta rims, replete with de rigueur glow. The nose has a thick textural lift that remains solidly anchored, the currant, cherry, blackberry scents glued together and to the cinnamon stick, menthol rub, toffee crisp, mountain scrub, coffee rinds scents, rolls of flesh. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied and has bite during the attack due to the raspberry, cherry, cranberry fruit even though the acidity is not especially cutting. Honey, molasses, toffee, all the oak flavors are hard and not particularly toasty. With the overall weight the underlying dryness doesn’t have much impact. Squares its shoulders past the mid-palate and charges forward. Just big. 88 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Petite Sirah
2002
$35.00
15.1%
Jet black, almost onyx core, with thin if richly incandescent crimson red rims. Still so much coconut, vanilla powder, butterscotch in the nose, as it opens gains focus on the pine cone, wild herb, orange zest accents, sharp and tangy currant, blackberry, cherry scents, has a competitive nature, wants to test you. Medium-bodied, spicy with clove, ginger nuances in addition to orange zest, flowers, menthol and pine. The tannins are tacky as well as mildly peppery, both helps to glue things in and create a slow bubble up. Sour bite enlivens the cherry, red currant, blackberry fruit. While slow to coalesce, dried beef and leather tones embellish the finish. May warrant further aging but the cloth’s knit has begun to stretch and stay stretched. 90 points
Verget, Maison
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Cuvée des 10 Ans
Chardonnay
2000
$19.99
13.0%
Solid old gold coloration from the core to the rims, more depth than shine, pools deeply. Crème brûlée, vanilla pudding hit your nostrils first, then tangerine peels and pebbles, stabilizes into taut pear, peach, green apple scents of pleasing length. Medium-bodied and compact, no wasted motion nor extra flab. It’s no fault of the acidity that the oak toast, caramel, crème brûlée, coconut dominates. That said, the oak does so tastefully and provides room for the apple, pear, apricot fruit as well as the lemon, tangerine citrus. Light floral swipe at the end. All in all, a very good wine that should be avoided by the persnickety as it’s not exactly the soul of Chablis. 89 points
Dauvissat, Domaine René et Vincent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Le Forest
Chardonnay
2000
$32.99
13.0%
Moderate yellow-straw color, semi-dull finish to the surface, mild hue loss approaching the rims. Mint and pressed flowers in the nose pair seamlessly with crushed seashell, chalk, limestone type scents, the lemon peel a strong introduction to the pear, yellow apple, apricot fruit, stretches out more than naturally tall, no heaviness. Medium-bodied, semi-withering acidity cakes the palate, however, the honeyed, botrytis-like notes come out swiftly. This brings a candied feel to the lemon, lime peel without giving up alertness in the minerality and chalkiness. While wiry, there’s no leanness in the apricot, pear, peach fruit. Attractive balance between hard and soft textures. No need to rush the cork out of the bottle. 91 points
Correggia, Azienda Agricola Matteo
Piedmont, Italy
Roero
Ròche d’Ampsej
Nebbiolo
1999
$38.99
14.5%
Clear red-ruby colored core, curiously heavy-set crimson red rims, seems only moderately aged. Heavy, heavy vanilla cream alongside caramel percolates through the nose, dried rose petal and pine notes work hard to create lift, the dried orange peel and cherry to blackberry scents solid without being a linchpin, doesn’t display substantive advancement. Medium-bodied, remarkably smooth, the soft sandpapery tannins give way good naturedly to the juicy raspberry, cherry, strawberry fruit and lemon/orange citrus. Leather, horsehide, cedar and tea leaves fill out the mid-palate. Zigs and zags considerably from sip to sip, makes you hesitant to assess fully. 88 points
Trinoro, Tenuta di
Tuscany, Italy
Rosso
Blend
1998
$89.99
14.0%
Deep purple bruise coloration. the ruby rims clear without sacrificing the overall considerable saturation. Lots going on in the nose, presents tea leaf, mint, orange spice, tobacco, coffee bean, chocolate, caramel, manages to not come off as oaky, once you get past these slutty scents there’s bell pepper and a whisper of leather alongside the cherry and red currant fruit. Medium-bodied with the texture of velour, both gives and grips. The fruit stays in the fore throughout, even though the strawberry, raspberry, cherry fruit is not over the top nor excessively sweet. Gains a floral lift with lemon custard notes. The tannins pretty much powdered now, the acidity on the light side. Just figures out how to please and then delivers. 80% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot. 90 points
Pointe, Château La
Bordeaux, France
Pomerol
Blend
1998
$29.99
12.5%
There’s a murky layered quality to the dark purple core, leans heavily on the otherwise bright brick red rims, rests heavily in the glass. Slabs of juicy plum, currant, blackberry fruit continue to take up 99% of the space in the nose, mocha chip, coffee bean, flowers and freshly ground cedar chips, nothing to complicate immediate enjoyment. Full-bodied, round with good palate pressure, there’s sufficient tannin to act as the quicker-picker-upper when needed. Orange peel, garden herbs, wet cedar, ginger match up with the more basic vanillin and chocolaty oak flavors. A certain medicinal fume builds pleasingly in the mouth past the mid-palate. Long, unforced finish. Can still shed some fat but pleasure is in the house. Unspecified percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc. 89 points
Anwilka
Stellenbosch, South Africa
Blend
2005
$39.99
14.0%
Black core, perfectly opaque and with a squeaky clean surface, surrounded by razor thin ruby-magenta rims. Serious amount of oak in the nose, roasted coffee, fried butter, toffee, some wildflower fluff to be had before the fat plum, currant, cherry scents plop in, built to invade your nostrils with force. Medium-bodied, so oaky it is neigh impossible to get past the caramel, coffee, butterscotch to any of the cherry, strawberry, raspberry fruit. With concentration you may discern floral dust, orange citrus, leather, cedar and sweet tea leaves. Some tannin, no acidity. No guile, straightforward celebration of the mating of oak and fruit. 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Shiraz. 86 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Petite Sirah
2001
$35.00
14.2%
Zero cloud or film, the complete opacity comes from the jet black core, purple only makes a brief appearance before the burnt red to pinkish ruby rims. Caramel popcorn, butterscotch, butter cream set the table in the nose, the density of the plum, currant, cherry scents not providing room for anything but the floral dew, barely shows a trace of further scents. Medium-bodied with perhaps a bigger mouth feel due to the steel beams of tannin. Orange peel, potpourri, cedar come through next but it’s like a trudge through a tar pit, every inch forward gained with a bucket of sweat. Not much give in the plum, cherry fruit, lasts well but you fight to get at the juice. Licorice and mint add a second of nuance at the end. Could potentially unwind more but hard to imagine complexity as a result. 88 points
Saxum
San Luis Obispo County, California
Paso Robles
James Berry Vineyard
Bone Rock
Syrah
2000
$48.00
14.8%
Remarkable clarity and cleanliness, especially given the blackness of the purple core, brilliant luster along the surface, vivid orange to scarlet rims, bright like a sunset. The salt, stone, mineral, dried beef scents in the nose high in the register and sneak in before the more resonant plum, blackberry fruit, the oak toast has softened into caramel, vanilla fudge notes, as it opens there’s more of a leveling floral component, firms up before dissolving. Full-bodied but shedding weight, more like a metal fence than brick wall. Here the cocoa dust, fried butter, toffee oak more evident, brings out mint leaf as well. Dull stoniness throughout, otherwise few signs of development, no gamey nor meaty accents. The acidity able to freshen the raspberry, blackberry, cherry fruit, draws it further towards the finish. No blockbuster but rather solid, consistent delivery. 90 points
Ridge
Sonoma Valley, California
Pagani Vineyard
Mataro
1997
$18.00
14.5%
Deeply hued, the ruby-purple core spotless enough to avoid opacity, a magenta tint brings a glow to the ruby foundation of the rims, nothing here suggests a wine of its age. The nose brings the raspberry, strawberry, cherry fruit fast and furious, thankfully not quite jammy so that there’s spaces for the floral dew and lemon custard to show, more hints than delivers on the meatiness ledger. Full-bodied, round and rich, this allowing for the highly credible level of acidity carving away at anything it can touch. Super-sweet cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit, a real palate stainer. Milk chocolate and pine fit in well and, as in the nose, the orange and lemon citrus pitches in to clean up the finish. Not quite “wooly” nor “gamey” but neither would seem unapt either. Makes you enjoy it more than pay attention to it. 77% Mataro, 23% Zinfandel. 90 points
Relanges, Domaine des
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
La Cuvée Vigneronne
Blend
1998
$22.99
13.5%
Filmy throughout, red-orange inflections lighten the purple core albeit murkily opaque, the rims a dull brick red with orange to brown tints. Powerful herbaceousness in the nose, favors the stony earthiness, there’s orange reduction and wet leather in there too, a smoky, if not quite roasted, quality pervades the raspberry, cherry scents, the latter retains some youthful vigor. Full-bodied, what tannin there might have been has resolved yet the acidity still has kick. Chocolate and dried wildflowers pile on top of the cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit which didn’t really need an excuse to stay on the couch. Again, a substantial amount of grassiness, earthiness to be had, adds to the overall chewiness. Rugged, country-style wine with appeal. Unspecified percentages of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, etc. 88 points
Bouchard Père & Fils
Burgundy, France
Corton-Charlemagne
Chardonnay
2002
$89.99
13.5%
Light white straw coloration with brilliant shine, very consistent with hardly any dimming at the rims. Crystalline mineral, rock filled nose with smoky oil, mint leaf accents, the peach, apricot, pear scents have leveled off to a steady whisper, close to your ear. Medium-bodied, very steely and flint, presents a lemon infused mineral water element, dried flowers and mint once more. Lacks a somewhat expected creaminess yet that doesn’t take the roundness out of the apricot, peach, pear, yellow apple fruit. The acidity keeping throwing karate chops through to the finish making for a lively workout. Not sure that extended aging is required but should easily hold for 4-5 years. Or 4-5 minutes depending on how fast you can chug. 91 points
Branson Wines & Vineyards
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Coach House
Shiraz
1998
$75.00
14.5%
Clear black-purple core, still turns opaque without any murkiness, broad red-ruby rims betraying no age. Soy sauce, eucalyptus, orange crisp, dark chocolate and mint bubble up through the nose, has a touch of merde yet not enough to disturb the sturdy plum, black currant fruit scents. Medium-bodied, very soft, flows into any open crevice, not structured sufficiently to keep the plum, cherry, blackberry fruit lively past the mid-palate. With orange peel, fried vanilla ice cream, caramel accents, the oak probably adds more weight than any other component. Near the finish both turns more pruney as well as dries out to let herbaceousness and leather show more. Mildly stony at moments. Classy wine but appears fatigued. 88 points
Henschke
South Australia, Australia
Eden Valley
Hill of Grace
Shiraz
1998
$250.00
13.7%
Very clear, light and transparent red-purple color, some bricking towards the rims where red and orange hues dominate. Roasted fruit profile with as much prune, raisin as cherry, cranberry scents, adds in saddle leather, cedar, cow patty shades, doesn’t strike you as over the hill but certainly maturing, good lift. Medium-bodied with a dusty texture as if the tannins ground into powder, grips the tongue more as a result. Medicinal and semi-hot, focuses on orange to grapefruit citrus and cedar accents. Minimal oak left, this helps lend clarity to the other parts. The cranberry, red cherry fruit is drying out but not in a sugary fashion, starts to peter out past the mid-palate. Molasses crisp and cut grass make irregular appearances. Displays lots of that medicinal perfume and alcoholic heat as it dissolves. 88 points
Noon
South Australia, Australia
Langhorne Creek
Reserve
Shiraz
1998
$60.00
15.7%
Trim, well-integrated coloration with attractive surface shine, the violet core puts up no fight in fading to ruby, scarlet hued rims. The nose has good heft and thickness via the caramel, vanilla, candied blood orange scents, notes of witch hazel evoke alcohol but not necessarily heat, rich red cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit, remains fresh today and persists very well. Medium-bodied, smooth and fairly fluid with liqueur-like concentration in the raspberry, strawberry, cherry fruit but not the heaviness per se. Good acidity brings bite to the grass, stone elements and there’s pleasing florality throughout, especially orange blossom. Soft honey, molasses tones help it sink in past the mid-palate. Actually has a somewhat subtle finish, a minerally aspect comes through and a touch of dried beef. 90 points
Kay Brothers Amery Vineyards
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
Amery Block 6
Shiraz
1998
$75.00
14.5%
Unblemished black purple core of excellent clarity, with thin ruby rims, overall appears youthfully vigorous. Muscular nose of dark chocolate to German chocolate cake, eucalyptus, mint, caramel, Maraschino cherries, syrupy raspberry and blackberry scents, displays minimal signs of any aging. Medium-bodied with an extremely strong super-structure, however, the tannin and acidity do not come off as overbearing. First presents mint alongside orange to grapefruit citrus tang. Through the firm currant, cherry, blackberry fruit comes through a good deal of stoniness. Really stays in control all the way through to the finish, tenacious focus. Not an inordinate amount of meatiness at the moment, hard to say what tertiary development is left to be had. Big, sassy finish. 92 points
Greenock Creek
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Roennfeldt Road
Shiraz
1998
$300.00
16.0%
Pure violet core, only at the ruby to dark magenta rims can you discern a fine sediment present, no visible bricking. The nose is full of outsized oak, features vanilla ice cream, butterscotch, molasses as well as jammy blackberry, raspberry, blueberry fruit, nothing in there to suggest any scents other than oak and fruit. In the mouth it’s full-bodied, soft and generous, sloshes happily around your tongue. Possesses a tannic spine yet it is rendered almost imperceptible by the layers and layers of blackberry, blueberry, raspberry, cherry fruit. Toasty at first, the oak accents segue to vanilla ice cream, caramel, molasses, butterscotch, mint and menthol. Texturally it’s like a pureed dessert with the consistency of wet cement poured down your throat. Curiously, there’s a bitter note on the finish which provides a point of relief. 90 points
Veritas
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Hanisch Vineyard
Shiraz
1998
$80.00
14.5%
Red-ruby to violet throughout, little difference from core to the rims, spotless and with luster. Sour nose of rubber, merde, and oily notes, this throws the cranberry, red cherry, raspberry fruit off their game, displays momentary bursts of lemon peel and broken stone, as the scents dissolve the vanillin oak and toffee crisp comes through most. Medium-bodied, interplay of sweet and sour here too, furnishing oil, soy sauce, wet smoke and burnt grass notes. The oak component much toastier here and borderline burnt. On the whole more acidic than tannic, has structure but not direction. This allows the alcoholic heat to create turbulence in the red cherry, raspberry, cranberry fruit. There’s a medicinal pucker during the finish. Not sure if it can resolve into a more harmonious package but has sufficient complexity to engage the intellect. 88 points
Burge Family Winemakers
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Draycott Vineyard
Reserve
Shiraz
1998
$60.00
14.5%
Good density in the red-purple core, surrounded by dark red-ruby rims, lots of chunky sediment, needs a careful decant. Big, straightforward nose of plum, blackberry, cherry fruit with downy vanilla notes as well as cinnamon and caramel accents, moist game flourishes add depth, just enough mint and menthol to get it unmoored from the ground before it dissolves. Medium to full-bodied, actually puts on weight as it progresses. Mint, eucalyptus and orange spice pretty up the cherry, raspberry, strawberry jam. There’s a shock of chocolate crisp and toffee thereafter. The acidity greases the wheels so that even with the growing weight it glides forward. Hits you with a nip of orange, lemon citrus on the finish. Complete if not horribly complex. 91 points
Fox Creek
South Australia, Australia
McLaren Vale
Reserve
Shiraz
1998
$75.00
14.5%
Red-purple filled core, the clarity takes out some richness, however, brightens appreciably to red-magenta and ruby around the rims, pleasing shine. The nose is very organized and streamlined, little touch of cough syrup to the base cherry, raspberry, strawberry scents, steady lift to the mint, eucalyptus, vanilla bean notes, slinky length. Full-bodied and velvety, sinks in nicely and then shakes off the weight like a wet dog. The dried out tannins act like a fine sandpaper on the cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit yet the juiciness carries through to the very end. With shades of mint, lemon custard, flowers it stays smiley and fresh, even the heavier vanilla pudding, caramel, molasses flavors relaxed and knit in. Seductive in non-splashy, steady manner. 91 points
Ringland, Chris
South Australia, Australia
Barossa Valley
Dry Grown Barossa Ranges
Shiraz
1998
$300.00
15.5%
The purple core opens easily into broad, dark scarlet red rims, heavily saturated throughout to impress. High-toned mint and menthol infused nose, brings out a floral swirl in addition to a “red fruit” character to the cherry, raspberry, currant scent, as it lifts it releases metal shavings and iodine notes, only possesses a gracing blow of caramel and crème brûlée. Medium-bodied, satiny smooth and slithers over the tongue like liquid mercury. Mint, flowers, eucalyptus, cedar and dill nuances abound, opens up the palate into a highly receptive state. The tannins tug at you without pulling at you, acidity smoothes out any ruffles. Bright quality at first to the raspberry, red cherry fruit, sweet and tangy, then turns clingy. That said, orange and lemon zest keep it lively through the end. Just very well knit together, to the point that early on you more or less stop looking for flaws. 92 points
Penfolds
South Australia, Australia
Grange
Shiraz
1998
$185.00
14.5%
Classic red-purple bruise of a core, extremely thin ruby-magenta rims which glow warmly. Heavy, musky perfume of dewy flowers, Mandarin orange, vanilla custard, fresh cedar, tea leaves, cinnamon sticks, the cherry, currant, blackberry fruit scents plush while also a bit unyielding. Full-bodied, attacks with the acidity and tannins bearing their teeth, the notes of dried beef, leather, black earth somewhat deaden the attack. This makes it tough to get at the fluffier wildflower and mint leaf shades. Heavy, lead-footed presentation of the currant, cherry, cassis fruit. By the same token, flattened out orange to grapefruit citrus, tree bark, tar flavors. Molasses sweetness lift the finish an inch. Too dense and wound in on itself now, when it unwinds should deliver on the promises. 97% Shiraz, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. 90 points
Buller & Son, R.L.
Victoria, Australia
Rutherglen
Rare Liqueur Tokay Calliope
Muscadelle
NV
$50.00
18.0%
The red-brown core deepened by a great deal of sediment, deserves a decanting, wide yellow rims. Lots going on in the nose, caramel, burnt grass, coffee rinds, molasses, ginger and cinnamon spice, and then swollen peach and apricot fruit scents, more of an integrated package than isolable scents. Full-bodied, just explodes outwards with toffee, caramel, coffee ice cream and crème brûlée tones. After the initial cannonball effect has subsided there’s lemon zest, mint leaf and even more coffee. Has sufficient acidity to complement the date, fig, raisin flavors with some cherry and raspberry fruit. Coats the palate nicely but more so plasters the roof of your mouth. Tactful length, not over the top. 375 ml bottle. 91 points
Ridge
Sonoma County, California
Buchignani Ranch
Old Vine
Carignane
1999
$22.00
14.3%
Dark purple dominates the core yet there’s a broad red influence too, this scarlet quality leads the ruby and magenta hues around the rims. At first the nose smells like a bushel of freshly picked mint leaves then it shifts gears to caramel sauce dripped over strawberry and raspberry fruit, amidst all this freshness lurks a mutter of animal hide. Full-bodied, the tannins remind you of the plastic rings holding a six-pack of cans together, they’re tough and do the job until suddenly a can escapes and then the plastic goes from fully in control to zero. So, once the “can” is out the chocolate powder, mint, floral essence as well as strawberry, raspberry, red cherry fruit spills forth without any channeling force. Quiet leather, dry earth and meadow grasses hidden behind the fruit. Very good extension through the finish. Your glass gets emptied awful quick like. 89 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Russian River Valley, California
Walker Vine Hill Vineyard
Syrah
2003
$50.00
15.4%
Completely opaque purple core, visibly shiny and reflective, the rims truly as violet as ruby-magenta, could not be any more saturated. Presents an explosive nose of floral dew and hyper-juicy blackberry, black raspberry, cherry fruit, sprinkles some cinnamon and ginger here and there, a few slices of orange, more clean than developed and mature. Full-bodied, given the nose the palate is more streamlined than expected, albeit still intently focused on expressing all the blackberry, blueberry, cherry fruit it possibly can. Here you get more oak-derived whipped cream and toffee notes, takes some of the spotlight away from the floral component. The relative lack of toastiness, though, keeps it soft and pliant. The orange to white grapefruit citrus really gains traction past the mid-palate. Not many gamey qualities but the cut grass and stone shard notes play well with the citrus. Very user friendly and with virtually no alcoholic heat showing. 89 points
Pax Wine Cellars
Russian River Valley, California
Castelli-Knight Ranch
Syrah
2003
$45.00
15.6%
Nothing penetrating the purple core, let’s just, umm, call it opaque, the thin rims an equal mixture of purple and magenta, heavy glow. The nose is somewhat high-toned and this brings out the alcohol more than if it were just bottom-heavy, grass, stone and salted beef notes lead the way for the ripe yet streamlined white grapefruit to red cherry, blackberry scents, carves its way out of your nostrils rather than linger. Medium to full-bodied, the acidity behaves like a welcome drill sergeant to make sure the cherry, raspberry, cranberry fruit does its pushups. In the same vein, you get sufficient minerality, iodine and dried beef to offset any oaky creaminess and molasses flavors. There’s dried potpourri notes but this is eclipsed by the sinewy white grapefruit and lemon citrus. The stoniness continues to build as it opens, providing the proverbial cornerstone to lean on. Has your mouth salivating nicely by the finish. 91 points
Tribut, Laurent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Beauroy
Chardonnay
2000
$21.99
13.0%
Pretty shine found in the green-gold coloration, noticeable fade at the rims in spite of the deep pooling in the core. The nose a big splash of apple juice, cinnamon, lemon zest and flower petals, soft with only a suggestion of stoniness, not particularly long lasting. Medium-bodied, the acidity too blunt to lay down a military drum beat for the flavors although give it credit for trying very hard. A certain bitterness pervades the whole, as well as a flatness which neither lifts into an inner mouth perfume nor sinks into your mouth pores. Dried orange and lemon peels, flower bits and both grilled nuts and glazed pie dough suggest a measure of oxidation. The apple, pear, peach fruit flavors soft and juicy and without verve. Thins out by the finish. By no stretch horrible but by the same token should offer more. 85 points
Ridge
Sonoma County, California
Mazzoni Home Ranch
Blend
1999
$24.00
13.7%
The violet shades have more or less ceded to red-ruby and garnet in the core, certainly the rims are full garnet to magenta, very youthful appearance throughout. The nose is of wild raspberries and strawberries, as if half the berries have broken and bled on the vines, light coffee bean and molasses crisp toast, compact notes of eucalyptus and flower petals buzz in and out. Light to medium-bodied, the tannins, but more so acidity, keep it smooth and supple and pared down for moving quickly. “Very berry” with raspberry, strawberry, blueberry flavors more prominent than any cherry flavors. More active lemon citrus adds sweet and sour tang. The overall lack of heft allows what herbaceousness is there to persist. Again, only the merest brush of oak toast and virtually no heat. Dry finish, at the same time your mouth is really salivating. 50% Zinfandel, 32% Carignane, 18% Petite Sirah. 88 points
Barthod, Domaine Ghislaine
Burgundy, France
Chambolle-Musigny
Aux Beaux Bruns
Pinot Noir
1998
$63.99
13.0%
The dark purple coloration in the core infiltrated by red to brown brick hues moving inwards from the rims, not murky but there is a certain dullness to it. The nose has a certain muddied quality to it, straw, wet dirt, leather as prominent as any cherry, raspberry, blackberry scents, minimal floral lift. Full-bodied, possesses plenty of sappy grip, to the point it slows to a crawl by the mid-palate. Pine, forest air and field flowers definitely give it an outdoorsy character, The acidity is a touch light but no saying the same about the tannins, lots of punch there. Given its weight there’s a curious fluffy feel to the mid-palate. Nips of white grapefruit to orange citrus come out here or there towards the end, sparks things nicely. Overall, though, it’s taken many ballet lessons but only marginally more graceful for it. 87 points
Lafite-Rothschild, Château
Bordeaux, France
Pauillac
Carruades de Lafite
Blend
1995
$31.99
13.0%
Black purple core of decent opacity, unblemished surface runs towards the red brick and crimson rims where you get to see the fine sediment particles there. The nose bursts with cracked stone, bell pepper, cedar, grass, old saddle leather, hard-nosed red currant, cherry, blackberry scents list here and there, dissolves bluntly. Medium-bodied, as in the nose the grass and bell pepper the first thing noticed, follows on with orange peel, mineral and iodine notes. The tannins remain blockish and forceful yet the currant, cherry, plum fruit provides little reason to believe they will outlast said tannins. Graphite, iron and leather comes on as it settles. Think it’s probably best to take it at face value now than wait for the proverbial swan to appear. Produces a very pleasing cloud of fumes in the mouth before it ends. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot. Second label of Château Lafite-Rothschild. 87 points
Prum, Weingut Joh. Jos.
Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Wehlener
Sonnenuhr
Auslese AP #21
Riesling
1993
$32.99
7.5%
Flat yellow straw color, pales around the rims where green-white hues do the work. Pliable nose, remains more firm than soft, thick rubber accents appear alongside white grapefruit, vanilla custard, tea leaf notes, the florality more forward than the stone/mineral parts, very long presence. Full-bodied, very salty and saline driven attack with boisterous acidity that almost sets the diesel fumes on fire. Tangerine, orange marmalade, pink grapefruit makes for an intense citrus experience. Excellent concentration and juiciness in the apricot, nectarine, peach, melon fruit. Finally, sparkling minerals and steel flecks bubble up through the finish. A mild creaminess keeps it soaking in and lingering through the finish. 92 points
Isole e Olena
Tuscany, Italy
Cepparello
Sangiovese
1990
$30.00
13.5%
A black-brown shade permeates the violet core, by the time things get to the rims it’s all crimson, brick red and zinc hues. Cedar, sweet garden herbs and orange peel bloom through the nose, some pine cone as well, strong hard candy character to the cherry, raspberry scents, has more than a few things going on but somehow doesn’t mesh into one harmonious voice. Medium-bodied, tannins have a dimpled, gritty texture than creates a slight turbulence in the presentation of the orange citrus, dried flowers, leather, cedar and tea leaf flavors, needless to say the same for the cherry, raspberry fruit. That said, it’s pretty welcome as it shakes things up and keeps the fingers snapping. Its sheer activity helps to cover up the relative shortness of the fruit near the finish. Lots of herbaceous fumes at the end. You still want to hit it but the time has come today. 87 points
Movia
Brda, Slovenia
Ribolla Gialla
2004
$28.99
12.0%
Resonant orange tint to the dark golden core, glows enough to not appear old in spite of coloration normally associated with an older wine, the depth of the core underscores the colorless transparency of the rims. There’s a large minerally, if not outright salty, component to the nose, pushes turning smoky at times, the peach, apricot and pear fruit juicy enough to settle things down and soak in, if you get it closer to room temperature there’s moments of flowers and honey. Full-bodied, does an excellent job of coating the palate completely, this without seeming too heavy. The tangerine to lemon citrus and florality much more evident here as well as tangy spice accents. The acidity is sufficiently bright to bring the fruit into the pineapple and nectarine spectrum as well as peach and apricot. Any grassiness met equally by a certain creaminess during the back half. A compelling wine that changes as it opens. 91 points
Mugnier, Jacques-Frédéric
Burgundy, France
Chambolle-Musigny
Pinot Noir
2002
$55.99
12.5%
Very lightly hued mixture of brick red and purple, fully red nearer to the semi-dilute rims, easily transparent. While there’s a modicum of forest floor matter and earth to the nose it is mostly comprised of flowers and light, briskly pure red cherry, raspberry fruit, sweet yet so openly knit the juiciness can’t coalesce against the grassier notes before it dissolves. Medium-bodied, possesses sufficient tannin and acidity to grip through the attack. That said, remains light of touch and the word that keeps coming back again and again is “pretty.” The cherry, raspberry, cranberry fruit swells some in the middle and fades with a sigh before the finish. Not short, though, simply tactful and of few words. The lemon peel, dried meadow grasses and dusty brown earth skip along the palate. As with the nose, the delicate florality a softly steady presence. Clean, succinct finish. 89 points
Dagueneau, Didier
Loire, France
Pouilly-Fumé
Silex
Sauvignon Blanc
2002
$74.99
13.1%
Subtle green flecks float through the base yellow straw color, the surface sparkles sufficiently to mask the loss in hue at the rims. Highly herbaceous nose with white pepper, salt, grapefruit pith dashes, the chalkiness impure and mixed with metallic minerals, there’s a lean focus in the peach, pear, green apple fruit scents. Medium-bodied, hard contours to it, angular with muscular acidity intent on kicking up a storm inside your mouth. Mineral dust, fried lemon peel and grapefruit first thing noticed, the general intensity level doesn’t allow for much relaxation. As a result, you really can’t take the time to enjoy the pear, peach, apple, star fruit flavors. Minty, flowery finish, nothing settling down. You gain little sense of where it’s going to from here without trading off too much fruit in the process. 88 points
Bond
Napa Valley, California
Vecina
Cabernet Sauvignon
2001
$175.00
14.5%
The deep purple core possesses liveliness while at the same time easily opaque, this contributing to the heavy glow in the brick red to red-ruby rims. The nose is rendered immobile by coffee ice cream, caramel, cocoa dust and vanilla scents, fused to the black currant, black cherry fruit, presents a smattering of mint or eucalyptus, once it gets in your nostrils there’s no budging it. Medium to full-bodied with a dusty, tacky texture, hard to tell if it is from tannin or what. The plum, currant, blackberry fruit feels yanked into the spotlight, crests in the mid-palate and fades swiftly towards the finish. Obvious burnt coffee, dark chocolate, vanilla and toffee crunch oak flavors. Clenches during the middle and never regains flow. Minimal non fruit nor oak aspects. Could use more grace and general clarity among the components. Unspecified percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, etc. 87 points
Tremblay (Domaine des Iles), Gérard
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Fourchaume
Chardonnay
2000
$15.99
13.0%
Only little flecks of green-white left, has mostly deepened into an orange gold hue, pools well in the core yet loses most color at the rims. Pleasing smoky, flinty element to the nose, borderline touch of saline, brawny lemon to white grapefruit citrus component, maybe twiggy or showing some dried leaves, the pear, peach, apple fruit steady as she goes, no flash but there at the end. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied with a certain welcome sternness, you know this house isn’t going to blow over in the wind. The acidity comes in dusty sheets rather than laser beam, helps to play up the chalk, limestone, bone flavors. The soft floral touches subsumed in the citrus bite by the mid-palate. At first the pear, apple, apricot fruit may appear attenuated but it’s more so woven into the whole. Contours do soften a smidgeon on the finish which just allows it to grip more. Should hold hereabouts for 2-3 more years. 89 points
Clair, Domaine Françoise & Denis
Burgundy, France
Saint-Aubin
Les Murgers des Dents de Chien
Chardonnay
2000
$31.99
13.0%
The strong green tinge to the golden core fights off any more orange-amber hues, yellow stays true through to the rims where the color fully dissipates. Hyper-crisp and edgy oak permeates the nose and sets a steady, rapid beat for the pineapple, pear, nectarine, green apple fruit scents as well as clove spice, fried lemon peels and powdered flowers, dissipates with a spider web’s consistency, seems open until you get stuck in it. Medium to full-bodied, while that zesty oak toast and fried butter frame the attack, at the same time the lemon to white grapefruit citrus spring into action and even the florality seems to have more cut than give. Longlasting apricot, nectarine, pineapple, apple, pear fruit smoothes out the highs and lows. The acidity is above average and may even seem more full of verve given the overall toastiness. Dressed to the nines for a Saturday night out, wouldn’t recognize it on the subway to work Monday morning. 89 points
Otheguy, Stéphane
Rhône, France
Condrieu
Viognier
2005
$47.99
14.0%
Dull and semi-cloudy yellow straw color, what’s there stays there through the rims, hints at enough zinc orange to solidify well. The nose is all cinnamon spiced apple sauce and floral perfume, sticky and clinging, blends in pear, apricot, melon scents as well, zero lift leaves the nostril texture getting creamier and creamier. Full-bodied and somewhat clumsy, plops down on the tongue and looks for the remote. The cinnamon to clove spice and orange blossom adds some energy yet the lack of acidity coupled with the vanilla and pie crust flavorings gets it sinking back into the beanbag chair. No lack of peach, apricot, pear, green melon fruit. A graceless wine that should possess more manners if not coquettish allure. Who wants lifeless Viognier? 85 points
Droin, Jean-Paul
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Vaudésir
Chardonnay
1999
$35.99
13.0%
Amber hues deepening the golden color, visibly moving into maturity, deep and layered yet the rims still show loss of intensity. Milk and sweet baking spices in the nose detract from the elegance of the flowers and orange citrus while also adding too much roundness to the peach, apricot, yellow apple scents, doesn’t lack for fullness but nothing here evokes terroir. Full-bodied, perhaps even heavy and close to ponderous, the acidity struggles but can’t get things focused and lean. Rose and lilac perfume blends with mint and lemon/orange zest to create an attractive attack but this prematurely sinks into vanilla, white chocolate and butterscotch flavors. Dusty mouth texture saps the juiciness out of the peach, apricot, pineapple, apple fruit. Moderate chalk and white smoke accents towards the end. Too soft and lacking in verve to win you over. 88 points
Outpost
Napa Valley, California
Howell Mountain
Zinfandel
2001
$40.00
16.5%
The core is more purple than black helping it blend into the dark ruby rims, maybe the slightest suggestion of red bricking at the outer edges. In the nose the caramel and vanilla ice cream swirl dissipates in favor of jammy raspberry, strawberry, blackberry fruit scents, very berry, the eucalyptus and mint appear to have subsided some although there’s still a strong lift and openness before dissolving. Medium-bodied, the gritty, grainy texture is the first thing you notice in the mouth and the first sign of any age. Beyond that there’s still the well-meshed assemblage of vanilla, toffee, herbs, menthol and mint alongside the raspberry, blackberry, cherry fruit. The fruit, though, has faded just enough to raise the perceptibility of the alcohol. Finishes with moments of orange peel, leather and brown earth. Comes up a touch short just when you want it to sink in deeper. 89 points
Karl Lawrence
Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon
2000
$45.00
14.2%
Smooth richness in the purple core, the ruby and magenta clearly separate along the rims, well-saturated there and still youthful. There is a liqueur type of alcohol to the nose yet the juicy raspberry, blackberry, black cherry fruit calms any frayed nerves as does the whipped vanilla cream, caramel and mint, the oak component dominant enough to stunt the florality. Medium-bodied, touch of dill mixed in with the caramel, butterscotch, vanilla pudding oak flavors. Once the oak normalizes in the mouth there’s pretty cedar, tobacco leaf, orange spice and dried flower petal nuances. Moderate loss of raw juiciness in the blackberry, black cherry, blueberry fruit but not unwelcome as this helps the tannic structure give it more oomph. Not 100% matured but in a very nice place and it’s up to the individual palate to decide if waiting for additional tertiary development is worth the potential loss of fruit. A glass or two will leave a dusty coating behind on the tongue. Grapes sourced from the Morisoli Vineyard and Herb Lamb Vineyard. 88 points
Verget, Maison
Burgundy, France
Pouilly-Fuissé
Cuvée des 10 Ans
Chardonnay
2000
$28.50
13.0%
The golden color aged enough to take on light amberish hues, dull on the whole with the rims emptied out. Pure apple sauce nose accompanied by lemon juice and hyper-crisp oak toast, as it settles in the peach, apricot fruit and honey become more evident. Medium-bodied and, yes, it’s oaked out the wazoo but it’s a high-toned crisp toast with butterscotch, toffee and an elevating effect in the lemon/lime citrus. Same apple, peach, apricot, nectarine fruit as in the nose, steady from start to finish. A bit sour or dilly by the mid-palate. Not a lot of stoniness nor terroir but it’s fully in keeping with expectations and, on that score, it’s tasty. Long finish so you better like it if you have more than a sip. 88 points
Hirsch, Weingut
Kamptal, Austria
Zöbinger
Gaisberg
Alte Reben
Riesling
1998
$31.99
13.0%
Fully matured amber-orange in color, virtually no gold left, the rims show traces of dull yellow, given the darkness of hue fairly transparent, basically looks like a dessert wine. While there’s palpable milk and rubber tones to the nose it’s really built upon the orange and lemon citrus component, arguably more mint than apricot, peach or apple fruit scents, stays open without meandering. Medium-bodied, the acidity has kept its keen edge, here the citrus surprisingly even a bigger presence, gargantuan tangerine, orange, pink grapefruit citrus. The acidity does away with the milkiness but the rubbery notes remain. Not a great deal of stoniness nor minerality but one could be positive and say it leaves more space for the semi-poached apricot, peach, nectarine fruit. On the plateau and has a few years left here. 89 points
Tensley
Santa Barbara County, California
Thompson Vineyard
Syrah
2001
$35.99
13.8%
Despite its inherent darkness a brightness permeates throughout, enlivening the violet core as well as the ruby-magenta rims, doesn’t look a day older than its infancy. Light waft of rubber to the nose, dissolves in favor of pure, tart raspberry, blackberry fruit, mint leaves and stony soil, no real oak presence to speak of. Full-bodied, the grainy texture during the attack belies the power remaining in the tannins, nothing here ground to dust yet. In spite of this, the acidity impels things the most and adds bite to the red cherry, raspberry, more strawberry than blackberry fruit. This also helps frame the florality and orange citrus. Light herbaceous touch blends fully with the mild earthiness. Equally soft touch to the oak toast. All of this brings the fruit to the fore, albeit not in a typical “fruit forward” fashion. Keeps punching through the finish. 91 points
Dauvissat, Domaine René et Vincent
Burgundy, France
Chablis
Vaillons
Chardonnay
2000
$36.99
13.0%
Basic golden color with little visible sign of aging, good richness and depth as well as penetration through the rims, easily distorts your vision. Powerful florality in the nose, borderline overpowering, if you can adjust and dig deeper there’s mixed apple, peach, apricot fruit of excellent sturdiness and a softer undercurrent of shale, chalk and white pebbles, only a glimmer of honey or citrus. Medium-bodied with consistent heft from attack through the finish. The acidity smoothes things out here and helps to knit the elements together. The mixed wildflowers remains top dog but the lemon to orange citrus, mint and stronger honey get to sit at the table too. More apple than anything, however, fine degree of apricot, peach, nectarine fruit too. The stoniness most evident near the end, seems relegated to a bit role no matter what. Everything is on the same page so even if you could complain about a certain aspect there’s little incentive. Just chug and refill. 91 points
Sent to Their Grave in February 2008
Ridge
San Luis Obispo County, California
Paso Robles
Dusi Ranch
Zinfandel
1998
$23.99
14.9%
Almost zero purple left in the core, it’s a blend of red and black now, the red wines out towards the rims with shades of brown and orange too, not throwing much sediment. Perfunctory nose buttered popcorn, butterscotch and vanilla fudge accompanied by mint and juicy raspberry, cherry scents, nothing to really suggest either age or place. Medium-bodied, feels like it had a lot of baby fat now lost. Spicier here with orange to grapefruit zest and oak less intent on bulldozing you, basic vanilla, chocolate, butterscotch stuff. Nothing screams out as being too structured yet there’s enough dustiness past the mid-palate to assume it’s the remnants of the tannins. Pleasing breeze of florality through the finish, pretties up the otherwise thicker plum, cherry, blackberry fruit. Good length on the finish without trying to impress unto tedium. 88 points
Pride Mountain
Sonoma County, California
Cabernet Franc
1999
$52.00
14.1%
The purple core verges on jet black, the wide red-ruby rims deepening into a more crimson shade, little trace, if any, of sediment. The nose has slimmed down into a tighter package of flowers, crushed leaves and a trace of bell pepper alongside the yet formidable currant, cherry, blackberry fruit scents, the oak subsided into a soft cream more than noticeable toastiness. Medium-bodied, somewhat dusty in an irregular fashion which makes it slightly harder for the flowers, orange citrus to consistently pair with the cherry, blackberry fruit, the latter holding on well. The bell pepper gets lost here in favor of leather, stony earthy elements. Tannins can said to be still clawing away but, on the other hand, a good deal must be contributing to that tacky dustiness. Here the oak cream and toast blossoms aggressively, especially towards the finish and as a lingering presence. Doesn’t leave you with the impression more patience will be rewarded. 75% Cabernet Franc, 25% Merlot. 88 points
Vieux Donjon, Le
Rhône, France
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Blend
1999
$29.